Treating rust - scratches and stonechips - POR15, Bilt Hamber?

rossyl

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CLK 230K W208 Coupe (1999)(Auto)
Hi,
I've got a 1999 CLK ... and with German build quality there is a fair amount of rust! :mad:
Now I’d like to treat it, and stop it in its tracks!
I've been reading up all over the place.
  • I've found that Hammerite doesn't seem up to much.
  • Bilt Hamber seems new and a possible good bet, but no idea on its longevity.
  • POR15 seems highly recommended, but I only see examples of it being applied to out of sight areas.
My thoughts were to go the POR15 route.
One small stone chips: scratch out the rust, use POR 15 marine clean, then Por15 Metal ready, before carefully putting on POR15 preventative silver paint, then POR15 tie-in, lightly sanded if rough, then Merc touch up paint.
For larger areas, I would do up to the POR15 tie-in stage.
Has anyone got experience with this? Any thoughts?
Thanks,
R
 

bennesspipers

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It is a liquid,i put it on with a kids paintbrush. Never had reason to think it hasnt done its job. You apply it, wait, apply again & wipe straight off.
 

welland99

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W210 E280 estate 1999 facelift; 6th gen honda accord coupe 2000
Hi,

One small stone chips: scratch out the rust

Can anybody recommend good ways of scratching off paint and rust from small rust patches without causing damage to adjacent areas which are not rusting?

The best thing I can think of is something like a dentist's drill, but I don't have one of them!
 

bennesspipers

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Yes, modellers drill kit,dremel or similar,very usefull bit of kit for minor paintwork,use mine connected to a hornby transformer.
 
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rossyl

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It is a liquid,i put it on with a kids paintbrush. Never had reason to think it hasnt done its job. You apply it, wait, apply again & wipe straight off.

Thanks.

So when you wipe it off - what are you left with? Does the surface need to be primed before using a touch up pen or similar?

Thank you.
 

bennesspipers

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you're left with a treated area that looks 'blackish' in colour, you can then undercoat & gloss as you wish,personally,i go straight onto coats of gloss as iv got this theory that gloss doesnt 'stick' to undercoat properly. My technique for touching up with a brush is to spray paint from an aerosol into its own cap,& then apply with a brush while the paint is still active with thinners,you can always refresh this paint in the cap with another spray before you apply second coat. Any more help, just PM again, john
 
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rossyl

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I'm yet to carry this out but...


Here's the process:

1. Dremel the rust out. (or use a modeller's drill or similar)
2. Apply jenolite using a paint brush (jenolite should not damage surrounding paintwork, but don't allow drips)
3. Take note of waiting times on the product.
4. Apply jenolite again.
5. Take note of waiting times.
6. Wipe surface clean, and ensure it is dry (see product)
7. Paint. This can either be done using a MB touch up pen, or by going to Halfords and getting an aerosol of paint (they also do a colour match). The idea is to build up layers of paint as thinly as possible. Many prefer using aerosols, spraying into the aersols cap and using a thin artisits nylon paint brush to apply. Aerosol paint contains thinners and so ensure the paint is thin and consequently easier to apply.

Thanks to bennesspipers for the help. Hoping jenolite has the longevity.
 

khimani_mohiki

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POR15 is only for badly rusted areas, its said to convert solid rust into had usable material. For example the chrome on my bumpers was rusted thorugh leaving it very weak and easily poked thorugh, i treated it with POR15 and its now solid, although still thin. For small rust patches i scrape them out with a wire brush, treat with jenolite, put on a thick coat of Hammerite, sand back and paint
 

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