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URGENT!! Gearbox oil life - in years or miles - not fussy!!

fredfloggle said:
While the oil that came out of my box (excuse the terminology) wasn't burnt , it was tired - in the light of the fact that the torque converter doesn't have a plug , then now I can see the latest schedule of a change every 35000 miles makes a bit of sense . My sybian buddy who changed the fluid said he could drop the valve block to drain a bit morew fluid out of the torque converter , but I don't think you could easily drain more than half of the fluid out of the converter in any case , and the thought of springs and ball bearings bouncing around his collection of junk wasn't something I could face .

There is also a filter and an adapter plug that require changing every fluid change .

I would say that the gearbox is a bit crisper than it was before .

It isn't difficult to do , providing you have the proper access - this is what you pay for !
£90 sounds like he didn't change the filter , adapter plug and sump gasket ......

I would say to, it cost me that to do myself, did he use the correct oil, most here prefer the MB stuff, which also tends to be the cheapest suitable oil, what i did with mine is change 3 times, using about 8.5 ltrs, you can get about 3.5ltrs out with the sump off and 2.5 just draining down, i plan to do a drain down every year to keep it fresh. I think the official line is the oil never needs changing, but unofficialy MB dealers are recommending it if asked. Have to say my oil was very clean, 140,000 miles and no record of a change!!!
 
IIRC the torque converter was drained through the filler cap by turning the car upside down and shaking it gently. No, that's a lie, by using a suction tube, in the same way it was used to remove excess fluid left after filling and running the converter hot.
Maybe the lack of a drain plug is connected with the original and flawed 'sealed for life' recommendation?
 
when my gearbox oil was change, we started the car with transmission in neutral to spin the oil in the torque converter out. not much came out at the car was raised at the front, so I assumed that it drained out due to the raised angle.
 
compress ignite said:
Even using Mobil 1 A.T.F. ---fluid and filter every 30,000 miles.
NO Matter What Mercedes claims!
I can't concieve of a Mercedes torque converter without a drain plug---if so
(conservative).

I can guarantee that some don't have a torque converter drain plug, looked for mine for ages, did as you suggest, changed 3 times in succession.
 
I have a fluid snozzling machine so I plan on snot-gobbling a couple of litres out and replacing them in a month or so .

If you have access , then I would say the job isn't difficult , however at this point in my life I sold the 4 post , and the work that I carry out doesn't involve heartbreak - the idea of laying under a dripping autobox sump looking for a non existent drain plug in the peeing rain is not my idea of fun .

To the gent who tried to drain the torque converter by spinning it over - if you just look at the dynamics of what you tried to do , you can see why it won't work .
I know with older fluid flywheels that the slip could be controlled by varying the fluid level - but I don't think I'd risk running this box with no or very low oil for even a short period .

In retrospect i would have sucked the old oil first and replaced it , run the car for a bit , then dropped the 'box sump and change the filter and adapter . But there we go , live and learn.
 
With my car being the last of the "proper" mercs I just drain the verter followed by the box sump then remove the sump for the las bit and the filter. 50-60K seems to be OK for the synthetic fluid.

Ohh I feel the flames....:D :D
 
Dieselman said:
With my car being the last of the "proper" mercs I just drain the verter followed by the box sump then remove the sump for the las bit and the filter. 50-60K seems to be OK for the synthetic fluid.

Ohh I feel the flames....:D :D

Flames ? that would be the leaking fuel lines .
 
best method is to change at 35 k like the ols service details stated and buy the fluid direct from shell at a big discount its the same stuff and also leave for 30 mins so it has had chance to drip out.
i am aware that some dealers use power suction and get a lot more fluid out.
i am told its the metal bits in the fluid that cause the electric boxes to play up and its wear due to bearing ???breakdown.
its a known problem for all electric gear boxes and more often fluid changes help
 

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