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55k cooling upgrade

The operator did comment there was much more power available and mentioned over fueling?

Dyno experts please comment.

Over fuelling can also be your car chucking in fuel due to high IAT
 
Putting a 55 S/C on a dyno is not for the faint hearted, I have seen a few experienced dyno operators struggle and in my case bottle it when the car started snaking, loads of factors come into play, loading, the way the car is strapped down, the gear pulls, tyres, wheels (bent rims) I presume it was in dyno mode?, the only guy I have seen run them very well and consistently was Jerry for EC, I have not seen EC UK but I would expect the guys to do just as well.

Problem is the more runs you do, you can see the power get lower and lower, so the key is to get it right pre run then full run for the power figure. Your power is at the lower end, so no reason to struggle unless for some of the reasons above.

Thanks Billy you have put my mind at rest, it was in dyno mode here is the vid
SRR 22 02 14 - YouTube
the wife took it does not show the car moving about i was at the side of the car just out of shot but close enough to keep a bluetooth signal for the IAT on my tablet device for the data logging I was doing for this thread.

The two sucessfull pulls looked ok and after watching and listening to the c63's before mine it was satisfying watching a ten year old car try to spin the earth:D
 
Over fuelling can also be your car chucking in fuel due to high IAT

The graph at the time does not show this, i presume the map from Eurocharged for obvious reasons is set up to be safe.

The next logical step would be to wait for Jerry to visit again and work his magic and dyno tune properly.
 
The graph at the time does not show this, i presume the map from Eurocharged for obvious reasons is set up to be safe.

The next logical step would be to wait for Jerry to visit again and work his magic and dyno tune properly.

The EC map is set up to be safe, which for me is the best approach. Jerry tuned my car on the dyno but set it up at my request to run a very safe map. I know there was a 55K at the MSL tuning day that made about 540bhp with Jerry doing a live dyno map as he would normally do. The owner then asked Jerry to change the fuelling and lean it out. The car went up to over 550bhp but obviously more risk - the owner seemed happy though, each to their own and all that:crazy:
 
The EC map is set up to be safe, which for me is the best approach. Jerry tuned my car on the dyno but set it up at my request to run a very safe map. I know there was a 55K at the MSL tuning day that made about 540bhp with Jerry doing a live dyno map as he would normally do. The owner then asked Jerry to change the fuelling and lean it out. The car went up to over 550bhp but obviously more risk - the owner seemed happy though, each to their own and all that:crazy:

Thats exactly what I thought, I am more than happy with it as is, the map on its own changed the cars drive-ability so very impressed with Eurocharged.

Its not just about numbers......or is it:fail no please I do not want to turn into a number chaser:D
 
The graph at the time does not show this, i presume the map from Eurocharged for obvious reasons is set up to be safe.

The next logical step would be to wait for Jerry to visit again and work his magic and dyno tune properly.

Yep most run Rich towards the end, and as Simon stated this is the preferred safety net, read my old sticky on Boost reduction, I would also remove your pulley and check its in full contact and not slipping, it will become clear when you remove and check.

This is the things I would do before the next dyno or tune

1) check for boost leaks
2) check the pulley
3) fit a smaller gates green belt (Amazon)
4) NGK Colder plugs
5) oil / filter if not already done
6) gearbox flush and filter change if not already done
7) depending on the miles and age change your HT leads, bosch do them and identical to merc but a fraction of the price
8) coolant change if not already done, using merc fluid
9) Check for oil leaks on your cam covers, and only fit original gaskets if leaking
10) change the supercharger oil I used Mobil jet oil 2
11) Diff oil for some reason my old cls55 used a different Castrol to the E55, you can check here What engine oil? Which is the best engine oil for my car? | Castrol UK
12) reload your last map and disconnect your battery overnight
13) consider a TCU Tune
14) clean your throttle body, plenty of sprays on the market
15) Mercedes fuel cleaner MB # A 000 989 25 45 12

I know its not cheap, but if you do it in stages and plan to keep the car and look after it, I think this guide will help your car run and perform better I am sure.
 
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Thats exactly what I thought, I am more than happy with it as is, the map on its own changed the cars drive-ability so very impressed with Eurocharged.

Its not just about numbers......or is it:fail no please I do not want to turn into a number chaser:D

No its not about numbers its about driveability well for me anyway, but if you have 2 identical cars one running 540 and the other 580 with the same mods, I would like to be the one with the 580 :D
 
Yep most run Rich towards the end, and as Simon stated this is the preferred safety net, read my old sticky on Boost reduction, I would also remove your pulley and check its in full contact and not slipping, it will become clear when you remove and check.

This is the things I would do before the next dyno or tune

1) check for boost leaks
2) check the pulley
3) fit a smaller gates green belt (Amazon)
4) NGK Colder plugs
5) oil / filter if not already done
6) gearbox flush and filter change if not already done
7) depending on the miles and age change your HT leads, bosch do them and identical to merc but a fraction of the price
8) coolant change if not already done, using merc fluid
9) Check for oil leaks on your cam covers, and only fit original gaskets if leaking
10) change the supercharger oil I used Mobil jet oil 2
11) Diff oil for some reason my old cls55 used a different Castrol to the E55, you can check here What engine oil? Which is the best engine oil for my car? | Castrol UK
12) reload your last map and disconnect your battery overnight
13) consider a TCU Tune
14) clean your throttle body, plenty of sprays on the market
15) Mercedes fuel cleaner MB # A 000 989 25 45 12

I know its not cheap, but if you do it in stages and plan to keep the car and look after it, I think this guide will help your car run and perform better I am sure.

I'm a real Pro at putting fuel in the car but as for the rest...... :crazy:
 
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Problem is the more runs you do, you can see the power get lower and lower, so the key is to get it right pre run then full run for the power figure. Your power is at the lower end, so no reason to struggle unless for some of the reasons above.

The other strange thing and remember this is my very first dyno session, but the first run was aborted you can see that on the vid then a delay as he checked out the back of the car followed by the second pull another delay as he was still not happy at the back of the car followed by the last run, each time improving as it went along, i wonder what the figure would have been straight off?, we will never know.
 
The other strange thing and remember this is my very first dyno session, but the first run was aborted you can see that on the vid then a delay as he checked out the back of the car followed by the second pull another delay as he was still not happy at the back of the car followed by the last run, each time improving as it went along, i wonder what the figure would have been straight off?, we will never know.

You can also see that on my data log graph post#79 the blue line throttle position, red IAT's recorded during the time on the rollers.
 
Problem is this time of the year testing is pretty pointless, most 55s wont suffer with heat problems if running well, I would be interested to see the results when its 30c outside.

I ran in the summer approx. 580bhp, with just a EC uprated Heat Exchanger, and standard bosch 10 pump, loads of data logging, and never suffered heat problems, I know its a problem, but most cars that run well and fluids changed at the correct times, with upgraded HE don't really suffer to be fair.

Agreed, mine also ran 580bhp but on the standard Heat Exchanger and on both dyno days didn't suffer like some of the other cars. On the road it never seemed to pull power, even during the warmer summer months.

There is no question though that an uprated heat exchanger increases cooling efficiency, but not sure if it is to an extent where unless I was going for 600bhp it would be that noticeable. Admittedly I am positive that a STD heat exchanger would be exposed on track days....

Jules
 
Ginger, post your graph up, it may have the AFR reading on there.

Jules.

Hi Jules

The graphs have not been provided yet, hopefully the AFR readings are on there.

My gut feeling and obviously this was my first dyno event and everything I have read on the subject is that the first pull is the best.

The comment made by the operator leads me to feel that it wasn't till the last run he was happy at WOT on the rollers, the throttle position on my data logging shows that as well.

Not that it matters as it was a great learning curve for me and it was good to watch the great looking and sounding c63's at WOT, followed by the quietest 10 year old earth spinner doing its thing, what grunt what stealth what a great car. :D
 
As if by magic they have just arrived, this taken from the final run.

ginger55k-albums-e55-picture8013-image-6.jpg
 
Guys i have no idea if this is good or bad after 4 or 5 WOT on the rollers to get these readings the curves look ok to me, comment please.
 
Guys i have no idea if this is good or bad after 4 or 5 WOT on the rollers to get these readings the curves look ok to me, comment please.

Ginger - with your cooling upgrades, I wouldn't have thought there would be any real difference between the first hard pull and the third as from what you have said the temps recover very quickly.

When my car was at SRR back in May last year, I got a very hurried single run on the dyno. Basically I turned up early (ish) one morning with Billy and my car went straight on the rollers first so the car was pretty warm after the drive there. Charlie seemed to want us out of the way as a load of Subarus wre turning up. I would have liked some more runs but.... The result was 549bhp and 610lb/ft, with a slight blip in the curve early on which may have been due to belt slippage. My AFR looks pretty similar to yours.

See here, post 17. http://www.mbclub.co.uk/forums/amg-lounge/151916-dyno-day-ssr-2.html
 
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Thanks Simon, again as a dyno newbie and watching the past Eurocharged events at Acid's and elswhere all the cars seemed to be heavily strapped down to the rollers, mine wasn't and was moving all over the place, I think it was strapped at the back and it did feel rushed, the most important thing is that the graphs look ok.
 
Ginger, the graph looks fine as does the AFR, at least in line with the others ran on that dyno.

Charlie has dyno'd many 55k engined cars so knows how to set up the car. Mine ran 4-5 times with 3 minute intervals on that very same dyno and my best run was the last. As Simon has mentioned, with your cooling mods your engine should cool down more quickly so heat soak shouldn't be a problem and that's not factoring in the cool current outside temps due to the time if the year.

Reference the strapping, then looking at your graphs it has made no effect. Loose strapping leads to creep on the rollers, which can actually give a higher reading, not lower, so again all looks good.

The figures you have are fine and in line with other 55k engined cars with similar mods (guessing you have smaller SC pulley and map?).

Jules
 

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