55k cooling upgrade

[Ginger55k]

Ginger, the graph looks fine as does the AFR, at least in line with the others ran on that dyno.

Charlie has dyno'd many 55k engined cars so knows how to set up the car. Mine ran 4-5 times with 3 minute intervals on that very same dyno and my best run was the last. As Simon has mentioned, with your cooling mods your engine should cool down more quickly so heat soak shouldn't be a problem and that's not factoring in the cool current outside temps due to the time if the year.

Reference the strapping, then looking at your graphs it has made no effect. Loose strapping leads to creep on the rollers, which can actually give a higher reading, not lower, so again all looks good.

The figures you have are fine and in line with other 55k engined cars with similar mods (guessing you have smaller SC pulley and map?).

Jules

Cheers Jules

Yes its the smaller pulley and map, apart from the cooling no other mods are on the car.

Thanks for sharing your experience, its obvious I have little knowledge when it comes to dyno runs I was just a little surprised after watching the 63's roll on and off with ease and then watching mine twitching around, its good to know the graphs are fine, many thanks.

 

[7om]

Great thread!

 

[Ginger55k]

Thanks 7om.

The car is for sale in the classified section, my mid life issues required a v12

 

[TDE1]

Sorry for thread resurrection. I collected this today from a boat parts supplier.

Before i take it to my trusted indie, tell me - have I royally feckered up?

In case photo upload doesn't work, part number CM30P7-1. Diameters are about 3/4"

Thanks for any feedback, including pee-taking if i did bad.

 

[TDE1]

.

..

 

[Cyclone1]

Pretty certain it's the right one. Diameter at 3/4" / 20mm is correct. Commonly used on boats.

Jules

 

[Cyclone1]

Very timely thread redirection though with the hot weather etc.......

 

[nickjonesn4]

Very timely thread redirection though with the hot weather etc.......

Was just thinking the same!

 

[TDE1]

Thanks. Fingers crossed.

Felt odd getting a bit for my pride and joy from a boatyard!

Cheers

Tim

 

[Cyclone1]

Very timely thread redirection though with the hot weather etc.......

Ressurection

 

[E55jay]

I'm not noticing the heat

 

[Mrhanky]

Thanks Tim, I'm reminded me that all the parts for split cooling are still sat in the garage doing nowt!

Did you pick up the pump local to us? And how much was it if I can ask?

 

[TDE1]

I fetched it from Upton Marina, mate. £165. You can likely buy cheaper but I prefer dealing face to face. No idea if it'd be suitable for split cooling though. Don't see why not.

 

[Mrhanky]

I fetched it from Upton Marina, mate. £165. You can likely buy cheaper but I prefer dealing face to face. No idea if it'd be suitable for split cooling though. Don't see why not.

Thanks mate, that's not a bad price actually considering the convenience. Don't need it for split cooling but worth knowing as my Johnson pump is now over two years old.

 

[SMed08]

Holy thread resurrection!

So I now have this car.

Just started doing some IAT monitoring. No graphs as such yet. But with ambient temps around 17C whilst cruising at 60-70mph, IAT were about 21C. When I hammered WOT to about 100mph, IAT went to about 45C or so, then rapidly down to 30 within a few seconds. Took a minute to get down to low 20Cs though.

The car now has 113,000 miles and still pulls very hard. Will hopefully do some more power mods this summer. Good to know it has a decent foundation.

 

[BlackC55]

Im glad that the system is working well.

 

[Ginger55k]

Holy thread resurrection!

So I now have this car.

Just started doing some IAT monitoring. No graphs as such yet. But with ambient temps around 17C whilst cruising at 60-70mph, IAT were about 21C. When I hammered WOT to about 100mph, IAT went to about 45C or so, then rapidly down to 30 within a few seconds. Took a minute to get down to low 20Cs though.

The car now has 113,000 miles and still pulls very hard. Will hopefully do some more power mods this summer. Good to know it has a decent foundation.

Congratulations its a great motor which raised eyebrows at Acids Dyno day a few years back regarding which way the numbers went, a great cooling design from Olly (BlackC55), that's probably now two forum members regret selling this car.

 

[SMed08]

Thought it'd make sense to keep a few of my questions in this thread, since all the info and parties involved are here.

I'm thinking of either bypassing the Heat Exchanger, or possibly blocking it off with a plate. From my reading, the KC system often shows IATs below ambient, and I've never seen it below 21 degrees even with 11 degrees ambient. I think the HE is increasing the temps actually, which makes sense tbh, unless the HE is receiving water after the supercharger, instead of before the IC.

Bypassing the HE should drop the temps I reckon, however I'll have a lower water capacity if I do that, and with only a front tank, I think I need all the capacity I can get. So thinking about making a blocking plate to restrict air to the HE. That gives me the option of taking it off and on as I please, which will be useful if the aircon ever decides to fail.

I also need IATs to drop whilst I'm stationary, which having the HE is making worse I think, as the hot engine/exhaust is heating up the HE and thus increasing IATs. I want to take it drag racing, and whilst sitting in the staging lanes, it's going to struggle to drop IATs.

Open to suggestions/thoughts/opinions as I try to understand this system better.

 

[Ginger55k]

I would not recommend by-passing the HE unless you have live data logging in the car.

You are correct with a full on KC system the reverse happens and the HE actually increases the water temperature, however the HE is your last line of defense in this situation as if you lose the AC for the KC you lose very quickly all your cooling for the charge air delivery, if that was to happen on a normal pulley the clutch will disengage to safeguard the engine, that's why a fixed pulley and KC with a bypass is not a safe idea for a daily drive car.

 

[SMed08]

I would not recommend by-passing the HE unless you have live data logging in the car.

You are correct with a full on KC system the reverse happens and the HE actually increases the water temperature, however the HE is your last line of defense in this situation as if you lose the AC for the KC you lose very quickly all your cooling for the charge air delivery, if that was to happen on a normal pulley the clutch will disengage to safeguard the engine, that's why a fixed pulley and KC with a bypass is not a safe idea for a daily drive car.

But this car has a clutched pulley?

I will almost certainly be getting a smaller pulley in the future, debating on 74-77mm. The idea of a fixed pulley does interest me a lot, but I'd never do it without proper logging, and I don't think an OBD iphone app will cut it.

But either way, I'd like to optimise the cooling for when I go with a smaller pulley. I'm also thinking about meth/water injection possibly in the future. Something simple, just for cooling at the top end.