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C350e owners club

Quick question...

Anybody know whether the alloys provided with the night pack are machine polished or diamond cut?



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So dreaded yellow light came on. I wasn't able to select either e-mode or charge mode.

Battery charged up to 100% fine. Rang mb who sent RAC out. Diagnostics indicated an unknown fault and a recommendation to take to MB tomorrow. However a quick hard-core"foot to the boards" road test allowed me to use modes again but light is still on

Any advice or recommendations anyone ?

I'm sure to do a 800 mile round trip from Midlands to Cornwall dusting tomorrow night.



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Screen shot of Diagnostic
d9ef2808a0ea69a4883c7e837b7c73fa.jpg


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So are there any system to prevent some serious wear on the ICE when you have been running in e-mode for sometime and suddenly need a lot of power from it? I mean, is there some warming or something of the engine when running in electric mode?

I regularly find myself needing to use the engine to get quickly up to speed when e.g entering the highway.
 
I've wondered about this aspect too. A thought, and not something I have done as yet, but next time you are driving the car, set the dash display to engine temperature and keep an eye on it to see if it gets warmed up as you drive on electric only. I suspect it will. Maybe naive, but I can't imagine that MB haven't given this some serious thought. The waterpump is electrically driven, so maybe they use waste heat from the battery pack to warm the engine?
 
I've wondered this too, and I can't believe it's not built in to the systems as Chris suggests, but I'm sure the temp gauge doesn't register anything until the ICE is running.

Ideally though wouldn't it be the oil which wants warming and pumping, rather than the coolant?
 
CaptainChaos said:
I've wondered this too, and I can't believe it's not built in to the systems as Chris suggests, but I'm sure the temp gauge doesn't register anything until the ICE is running.

Ideally though wouldn't it be the oil which wants warming and pumping, rather than the coolant?
Click to expand...

Indeed it would, but I guess a warm cooling system would tend to warm the oil a bit at least. Pre-pumping would be great but I doubt they incorporated that? It wouldn't be hard to add an 'accusump' style device either.

I'd love to see a detailed description of all the systems on the hybrid. I've got that early 'release document' that covers some stuff, but given some of the things it talks about don't appear to have made it into production, how reliable is it.

The stuff I found on the M274 only covers the 'standard' engine, no mention of any hybrid specific adaptions.
 
Not strictly 350e related, but as it happened on mine.....

A potential hazard with using the 'comfort' kick-to-open boot sensor......used it today and somehow managed to get a shoelace hooked on something underneath there. I was balanced on one leg, the other foot in the air. Must have looked amusing to onlookers I suppose! Had to take the shoe off then grovel on the floor to figure out what had happened and rescue the lace from the very firm grasp of a cable clip. Can't say I find the feature very reliable most of the time, I just don't seem to get the knack of it right so end up looking like a prat apparently kicking my own car...... I usually don't bother, just use the normal release or the remote.

Back from a 400 mile round trip with quite a bit of not at all economical driving and it averaged 44.8mpg. Engine off for 130 of those miles. Pretty satisfied with that.
 
Switch to Sport mode as you approach the junction. That will start the engine and keep it running even when stationary. After you have joined the highway, switch back to Comfort or Eco mode.
 
Jules Goddard said:
Switch to Sport mode as you approach the junction. That will start the engine and keep it running even when stationary. After you have joined the highway, switch back to Comfort or Eco mode.
Click to expand...

I did a bit of that when we first got the car, by way of experiment. Works well, but does feel a bit like I'm doing the cars job for it. Most of the time I find it responds well enough to demands to not have to mess with it too much. I reckon if you have the driver assistance package as well, you could probably drive this car like flying an airliner, just input instructions to the flight director most of the time and only use the controls on takeoff and landing :) could probably use the parktronic for the landing too.

One thing I noticed the other day which was curious. Stopped in traffic, engine had already stopped as I'd rolled up to it. Hit brake hold, engine started and stayed running until I moved off. Happened a few times. This was with a pretty depleted battery.
 
Exciting key news! :D

The other day I received a message on the dashboard saying "Replace key battery". I used the online manual to see what was what. The key has one CR2025 battery in it. To get to the battery pull the blade out of the base of the key and push it into the slot next to the blade release button. This pops the cover to reveal the battery. You don't need to go to the dealer or have it recoded - thankfully!

One thing I didn't know - if you press the lock or unlock button on the key, a small red LED should light at the top of the key. If it doesn't light, your battery is getting low, so worth checking as I don't know how much longer the battery lasts once you receive the dashboard warning.

I bought a spare battery to put in the glovebox for future use as my car is only 18 months old, so the battery has not lasted very long at all. I have read elsewhere that if the key is often within range of the car it reduces battery life as the two are constantly "talking" to each other. I don't think that is the case for me, but I might do some experimenting to check as that is when keyless cars are vulnerable to attack from laptop equipped scoundrels.
 
CaptainChaos said:
Exciting key news! :D



The other day I received a message on the dashboard saying "Replace key battery". I used the online manual to see what was what. The key has one CR2025 battery in it. To get to the battery pull the blade out of the base of the key and push it into the slot next to the blade release button. This pops the cover to reveal the battery. You don't need to go to the dealer or have it recoded - thankfully!



One thing I didn't know - if you press the lock or unlock button on the key, a small red LED should light at the top of the key. If it doesn't light, your battery is getting low, so worth checking as I don't know how much longer the battery lasts once you receive the dashboard warning.



I bought a spare battery to put in the glovebox for future use as my car is only 18 months old, so the battery has not lasted very long at all. I have read elsewhere that if the key is often within range of the car it reduces battery life as the two are constantly "talking" to each other. I don't think that is the case for me, but I might do some experimenting to check as that is when keyless cars are vulnerable to attack from laptop equipped scoundrels.
Click to expand...


I wonder what counts as "in range"? One or both of our keys are usually about 30feet and one brick wall away from the car. Do you know if the communication only applies to the keyless entry option?

I thought that the last couple of keys I've had were charged by the car when plugged in, but that would be hard for keyless entry without a pretty neat inductive system...


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I thought "in range" would be if the doors open or not. I'm going to get a glamorous assistant to move the key to various places in the house and I'm going to try and open my car.

Yes, keys which "plug in" do charge from the car. I had an E90 BMW and the dealer recommended I used the spare key periodically to make sure it was charged up.
 
CaptainChaos said:
I thought "in range" would be if the doors open or not. I'm going to get a glamorous assistant to move the key to various places in the house and I'm going to try and open my car.

Yes, keys which "plug in" do charge from the car. I had an E90 BMW and the dealer recommended I used the spare key periodically to make sure it was charged up.
Click to expand...



The entry doesn't work unless the key is very close, in your pocket close but does the key communicate for other reasons at further proximity and is this distance further if I hold the key against my head!!


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It will be easier for me to test it against my own head, but I don't know if that will produce different results than using your head...
alienabduct.gif
 
I've succumbed to a bit of paranoia as far as the keyless go/theft thing is concerned and now I always double-tap the lock button on the remote when I get home to disable the key from transmitting in response to the car. Guess it'll help Key battery life too.
 
Chris-S said:
I've succumbed to a bit of paranoia as far as the keyless go/theft thing is concerned and now I always double-tap the lock button on the remote when I get home to disable the key from transmitting in response to the car. Guess it'll help Key battery life too.
Click to expand...



What's this double tap thing you speak off?


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mknight1701 said:
What's this double tap thing you speak off?


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Click to expand...

Press the lock button on the key twice in quick succession. The LED will do a flash, flash long flash thing to confirm. Keyless go will no longer work for that key until you press any button on it. Typically, that'll be when you next press the unlock button so you can get back into your car :) after that, normal service resumed until you next do the double tap thing again.

Car can be locked or unlocked when you do the double tap as it only affects the key, not the car, so you might want to do it on both keys. The manual suggests doing it on infrequently used keys to prolong battery life, but it has the 'advantage' of defeating the scumbags.
 
Chris-S said:
I've wondered about this aspect too. A thought, and not something I have done as yet, but next time you are driving the car, set the dash display to engine temperature and keep an eye on it to see if it gets warmed up as you drive on electric only. I suspect it will. Maybe naive, but I can't imagine that MB haven't given this some serious thought. The waterpump is electrically driven, so maybe they use waste heat from the battery pack to warm the engine?
Click to expand...

This morning, no preheating, I ran 6 miles on electric only. Temp gauge didn't move. Switched to E-SAVE so the ICE started. Temp gauge was moving within 1/4 mile. Up to half way within 1/2 mile. This was with gentle acceleration up to 50mph or so.

So my thoughts are that the warm coolant is going round the engine, but the temp gauge only registers when the engine is on. I can't believe the engine would have warmed up so quickly on such a light throttle.

The only other test I can think of is to go for an electric drive, park up and see if it's possible to feel any heat coming off the engine block.

Toyota have been running hybrids for years and some epic mileages. I wonder how they do it? Surely M-B must have cribbed their design?
 
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