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Engine missing

I looked at the GSF website, who have two MAF's, one £62, the other £192, doesn't say what brand.
ECP - Have a couple, a Bosch for £127
Rang one retailer local to me, initally stated £167, then quoted me £138.

Might get it hooked up to a diagnostic computer first to see if that would throw up the problem?

Looked dead easy to change over, am I right or more awkward than at first glance?
 
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You would need to be careful its not a scammer with lots of Chinese MAFs and one genuine Merc box but it looks like someone has a Merc one for sale here mercedes new air mass sensor bickley Car Parts Accessories

Your Bosch part is Merc part number A0000940948 I believe - they usually have both Bosch and Merc part numbers embossed on them (again check to be sure....)

Yep thats the same number I've got!

I'm tempted to go ahead and buy a new MAF before a diagnostic because if it is the MAF that £45 for a diganosis could go towards it.

If it ISN'T the MAF then I give up until next month! :dk:
 
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A diag for £45 is a bit steep.

Come to the GTG and I will do it for free.
 
Lol, i can't afford to go off sick again.

And how much would fuel cost too, £45 at least! :D
 
I wouldn't get there til 5pm at the earliest, me thinks a little too late! :D
 
ECP - Have a couple, a Bosch for £127
As someone pointed out when I was getting a MAF, ECP will nearly always come down (if you have a local store to go to) mine was £99 in the end.

Also we have noticed the counter prices are always cheaper than the web prices too start with.
 
Your so lucky... i have to buy the £180 sensor from ECP... :(
 
I'm tempted to go ahead and buy a new MAF before a diagnostic because if it is the MAF that £45 for a diganosis could go towards it.

If it ISN'T the MAF then I give up until next month! :dk:

Before you buy a new part meter the old one with a voltmeter. Connect +ve to Pin 5 and -ve to Gnd then run the engine.

Expect ~2v at idle and ~4.5-4.8v at full revs.

If the MAS is faulty you only need the correct element, not the whole thing. The element will have a seperate number.
One element fits many MAS housings, which are sized for engine capacity to give the correct airflow reading.

Alternatively take the car to Ollie's GTG.
 
If the MAS is faulty you only need the correct element, not the whole thing. The element will have a seperate number.
One element fits many MAS housings, which are sized for engine capacity to give the correct airflow reading.

Alternatively take the car to Ollie's GTG.

Actually I have seen a post somewhere on a guy that jusr replaced the element....dunno where he got it from though. Saw it on one of the other UK MB forums. Mabey Bosch can supply just the elemet, because as you say, thats all you need, and it comes away easliy from the whole unit.

To be honest I dont really know why they have to sell the whole unit as 90% of the thing is just a plastic housing / pipe.
 
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Before you buy a new part meter the old one with a voltmeter. Connect +ve to Pin 5 and -ve to Gnd then run the engine.

Expect ~2v at idle and ~4.5-4.8v at full revs.

If the MAS is faulty you only need the correct element, not the whole thing. The element will have a seperate number.
One element fits many MAS housings, which are sized for engine capacity to give the correct airflow reading.

Alternatively take the car to Ollie's GTG.

Do you know anyone who would sell just that element? Because if you do... i'd appreciate it if you enlighten us :)
 
Right. I've had a look and took the connector off but cannot see how you would get the +ve into pin 5 as it is sealed where the wires go into it down in the connector. I imagine it would all have to be in situ to get the reading so bit stuck now?!

Took the MAF off just to have a look and it looks fairly clean inside, didn't touch anything!, but possibly a bit oily/greasy in there. Read you can clean it, would I literally just spray carb cleaner (?) everywhere in there?
 
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Right. I've had a look and took the connector off but cannot see how you would get the +ve into pin 5 as it is sealed where the wires go into it down in the connector. I imagine it would all have to be in situ to get the reading so bit stuck now?!
Stick a pin through the wire where to can see it.

I think C230K passed that neat trick along to me a while back.
 
Ok, so results;

At idle: 2.44 v
2000 rpm: 2.7 - 3.0 v
3000 rpm: 3.5 - 3.6 v
4000 rpm: 3.8 - 4.0 v

Does this sounds about right? What does this tell me? Thanks all.
 
Sounds fine to me. Do u get any noises or distinct sounds whatsoever when it misses?

On a car with the mileage id expect the timing chain tor another similar part to present itself to want to be changed.
 

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