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OM642 PCV Upgrade

You could try a smoke test to check for any leaks - a lot of the pipework from the turbo via the intercooler is hard to inspect properly just visually. Cheaper than throwing parts at it and would eliminate one possible cause.
 
I cleaned the earth connector in blue circle...what a differance!!!! Starts MUCH better....reving as it should.....will fit the boost sensor when it arrives and test drive.......but think its sorted thank!
 

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OK it was not that...tho cleaning that earth can only do good.....also new boost sensor and still same.....
I'm kicking myself tho.....I did check all that I had done when changing the glow plugs but did not remove the bat wing again.....just visually checked and the tightness of the clamps etc...
Today I removed it....went over everything....and only when I came to put it back on...the Orange (Or as now Red) rubber turbo seal...thats actully not realy needed on mine as I have the modified BLUE samco style hose was kinked bad.....this was fitted by the MB Garage after the flaps and oil cooler where done....so just put back together without them and hay presto....starts better....and goes like stink again....and no LIMP mode!!!

Woop woop........:)
 
Brill - see post #103
 
Anyone got or point me to a diagram that shows what injector is what number? Only recently found out my ICARSOFT scanner does IMA codes on the injectors.....so if you change them you can put the new codes in....
Got me thinking....I've seen threads were people have changed injectors and not coded them....so I want to check mine are correct and in the right order etc.... (Notice 3 of them 1st few digits are same then other 3 are all differant)
But a google search on cylinder numbers leads to many confusing images on the OM642....one show looking at engine from front....cyliner 1 closest left then 2 then 3 going away from you etc then 4 5 6 on right?
Then another 1 3 5 left 2 4 6 right???
Does not seem right to me...as per images:-
 

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Lotsa confusing info by search but I think this is about right since it refers WIS document
AR01.00-P-1300-03T


 
But this maybe cylinder number but not injector numbers.....?
I think I'll try and read the codes from the injectors......write everything down.....take photos of the screen on my iCarSoft so I can at least put it back as it is.....and just see if there are any patern....or if indeed any IMA numbers on the injectors do NOT match those in the iCarSoft......
But it also got me thinking......if the info is confusing to me......someone else may have coded...but coded wrong in the past as only someone say using star would perhaps do it right?
i.e. code for injector 1 2 3 could have been coded 1 3 5 etc....or vice versa!!! Grrr I even have a manwell for E320 (covers om642) as unable to find haynes manwell for MLs....so far no help.....
 
I doubt they would number injectors differently than cylinders... sounds like intentional scam or chinese engineering...

edit: and if firing order is given also as a cylinders, its a bit crazy injector nr 2 would fire cylinder nr 4.... perhaps someone is just changed your injectors without coding them
 
ok Update all 6 Injectors removed ready for test and recon....will let youz all know outcome...
Oh and injectors IMA Codes matched....and looking from front injectors numbered as follows..........

3 6
2 5
1 4
 
Right all 6 Original Injectors fully reconditioned...put back in the original place so codes match (no new codes as told not needed, its for emmisions/max performance etc and ECU will self adjust.....)
Cured the smoke after long idle issue......but they are still "bedding in" so little noisy on low revs....but it is getting quieter the more its driven....they say up to 1000 miles for the ECU to get used to the new injectors....
Very happy puppy at the moment....
So just to recap.....this Engine has had....
New PCV valve and two catch cans....2nd being changed because 1st did not have baffles in it.
Recon turbo.....
Then oil cooler started to leak....
So into a MB Indi for new swirl flaps, motor and aluminium rods which I supplied, brand new oil cooler and purple updated o ring seals.
They said the recon turbo was faulty so it was re-cored under the garrentee, so in effect its had two new turbos!
6 bosh glowplugs
6 recon injectors

God only known how many oil changes....in well less than 500 miles.....but its now right!!
Oh yeh and about £3000 :)
 
OK pretty sure air is getting into the fuel system but no leak as the longer I leave it....harder to start....but...if I leave ignition on.....say after a few days I can hear the "gurgling" of the fuel pump getting rid of air. Also starts much better if I wait too.....so think defo pressure loss/air ingress.....
Oh and its got 6 new Bosch Duratek glowplugs, brand new latest GP Module and for peace of mind extra earth strap from the one that feeds module on top of engine to chassis!!

So for those that don't know....it has just had all 6 injectors but this issue was there before....so will still check and replace leak off o-rings to illiminate that some maybe damaged (came all new with injectors)

I did notice a very small leak on a very short fuel pipe ages ago....3" max in centre of engine which had the wrong fuel line clamps on...julilee which I nipped up....so this will be my 1st point to check.
I've bought new screw hose clamps that do not PINCH like Julilees do, they tighten more uniform...

My question is, are there any other know places for fuel lines to go...were air gets in but diesel does not get out???

Cheers
 
The fuel lines to and from the fuel filter on mine (OM642) started leaking through the inner wall of the pipes, and out between the two layers at the ends so looked like the clamps. Replaced both pipes and clamps.
 
The fuel lines to and from the fuel filter on mine (OM642) started leaking through the inner wall of the pipes, and out between the two layers at the ends so looked like the clamps. Replaced both pipes and clamps.
Thanks for that....anyone know the pipe inner and out diametre so I can order some if I do not have any already....(More than likey will as I have loads of verious pipe) I know it has to be braided.....to handle the pressure!
 
I would get the MB originals, the short one is only about 5 inches long and has a preformed 90deg bend in it and the longer one comes with a plastic guide frame that is bolted down and has some complicated bends to make it fit.
long one
short one
 
Larkone
Thanks......added to my watch list in case I do need to get them....
As I say though, I think and hope the one in the image (You can just make out the 1 of 2 jubilee clips) its raining and cant be bother to take a better pic sorry :) so this is one I already had.
The clip that is visable is the one that "weeped" and I just nipped it up....its streight pipe too.....but dont want to remove untill I know I have some pipe to replace...so if anyone knows the inner and out diamenters then I can check my (hose tube) in the garage that would be great!!
I'll look on the web forra better close up pic too.....
 

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Google searched closer image.....so NOT my engine.....and defo looks like it should have had the crimp on clips.....
 

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Ah right get you now. You can use needle nose pliers but these are better for getting the clamps off and on

Good idea to change the clamps as well

Looks like you have a slight leak under the LH fuel pipe on the fuel filter
 
Ah right get you now. You can use needle nose pliers but these are better for getting the clamps off and on

Good idea to change the clamps as well

Looks like you have a slight leak under the LH fuel pipe on the fuel filter
No as I said, last image...its a googled image....not my engine LOL

1st image is my engine!!

:)
 
No as I said, last image...its a googled image....not my engine LOL

1st image is my engine!!

:)
Apologies to busy looking and not seeing.
 

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