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Best options for sealing new Calcite White paint?

ace571 & Dr-Nab. really useful posts,a good thread and both your cars look great!
I have posted elsewhere that I am taking delivery of a new calcite white E Coupe sport at the end of March and as this is my first white car for a very long while, am quite concerned as to how to keep it looking clean. Dirty white cars (just like dirty black cars) look terrible. I had investigated a detailer applying Diamondbrite nano sealant and then following this up as necessary with Collinite 476. Am I wasting my money going for the diamondbrite?
 
Hi Survey. Can't comment on Diamonbrite. Might be worth starting a separate thread on this and asking the guys who have had this applied to their cars?

The reality is that white and black cars will need regular washing to keep them looking great. Collinite works for me as it makes that regular washing as quick as possible! I wash my car weekly and I can do it in 30 mins. My car is just over 3 months old and the water still beads nicely, although it is starting to show signs of needing another coat.

From my perspective, as long as you are regular with the washing and don't mind applying Collinite every 4 - 6 months, it'll do the job nicely.
 
ace571 & Dr-Nab. really useful posts,a good thread and both your cars look great!
I have posted elsewhere that I am taking delivery of a new calcite white E Coupe sport at the end of March and as this is my first white car for a very long while, am quite concerned as to how to keep it looking clean. Dirty white cars (just like dirty black cars) look terrible. I had investigated a detailer applying Diamondbrite nano sealant and then following this up as necessary with Collinite 476. Am I wasting my money going for the diamondbrite?

Thanks, if you are looking at the nano sealant kind of stuff I'd recommend g-techniq or nanolex - few friends have used their stuff and say it is pretty good.

I've just put g-techniq c5 on my 19s whilst they're sat waiting to be refitted at some point this week, there's a full range of stuff available but if you're willing to pay out for diamondbrite.. I'd consider contacting a detailer (there are some on here if you check through the threads) and see if they will protect your new car with the g-techniq stuff or something equivalent, that will minimise the amount of effort you need to put in when washing your car, of course.. you could just buy the nano sealant yourself and apply it but that would be the final coat on top of everything else.

There is also this stuff.. CarPro CQuartz Ceramic Paint Protection System check the video out as well which shows you how to apply it. :)
 
Hi everyone, my first proper post.

I use Colllinite 476 - tried lots of stuff since september last year but this is the one that eases the washing in my experience. Keeps it gleaming and beads beautifully. It also feels silky smooth.

I tried the autoglym HD wax for a few washes. It leaves a nice wet look finish but it doesnt seem to be as hardy as collinite and doesnt bead as well after the first week.

I also tried the autoglym extra gloss protection which is the easiest to apply - looks good when fresh but isnt great for keeping the dirt off it. This is very to the above two as it is synthetic and its in liquid form.

I've got a bottle of mer as well - used once didnt take to that - lots of powder - didnt hold up great either.

I concur with the view that new paint shouldnt be polished. I seem to recall I read some years back in the manual of a Saab I had that the piant took several months to harden fully (from memory upto 4 months). Logically polishing doesnt seem to sit well with the concept of not having fully hardened paint. Maybe merc paint is different and paint technology has moved on this was about 6 years ago.

Got my first Benz back in September last year in Calcite White. Absolutely love it.

Every spec of dirt shows up. I also get lots of stuff sticking to the paint despite the dealer Starguarding it (Starguard appears to be totally useless; they gave me a really fancy looking kit but the sponge and wheel brush look like they are from a £ shop !).

After spending about four hours on my first wash I went out and bought some Snow Foam and a foaming dispenser for prewashing for keeping those swirls to a minimum, only the remnants of the hardiest of stuff (some wierd species of tree near my office) now stick which I remove with some megs bug and tar remover. I was skeptical about the snow foam but it does work if left to soak for about 5-10 minutes, takes off quite lot of the dirt. It doesnt strip the existing wax as some people have claimed on some detailing forums. I use it neat. I also use a separate bucket and sponge for the sill areas, wheels and wheel arches o stop the bucket becoming contaminated with fine particles.

I avoid (weather permitting) letting other people wash it as I heard some of those hand wash places use things like washing up liquid (typically £1 a bottle - 1 bottle washes loads of cars) instead of car shampoo (typically £5 plus a bottle - 1 bottle doesn't wash loads of cars) .

I'll post some pics soon.

Problem areas are at the front wheel arches on the faces of the side skirts immediately behind the front wheels which have been peppered with stone chips. Anyone got any suggestions re film coatings or any other protection for those areas?
Hi. I did indeed contact a detailer who also happens to be used by my dealer to apply Stargard; interestingly the detailer recommends Diamonbrite rather than Stargard if one goes to him directly. He says it is better but I am always sceptical that there might just be more profit in it for him! My thought was to have the Diamondbrite prep and sealant applied by the detailer and then to apply Collinite 476 over the top shortly afterwards. What I want to do is to seal the white paint from day one and then keep the muck off as easily as possible. I realise that I may be throwing money away to some degree (£180) by not buying the sealant and applying it myself but I am no detailer.
 
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I understand where you're coming from so if you can get it done for a good price and you're happy with that level of protection then I don't see why you shouldn't go for it, but you put the nano sealant on top of everything else (so 476s then nano sealant) as it is more durable.. I'm sure one of the detailing guys on here will comment to say what is the best way of doing it.
 
I understand where you're coming from so if you can get it done for a good price and you're happy with that level of protection then I don't see why you shouldn't go for it, but you put the nano sealant on top of everything else (so 476s then nano sealant) as it is more durable.. I'm sure one of the detailing guys on here will comment to say what is the best way of doing it.

I had understood that the nano sealant is applied first???
 
Just emailed MB saying as they apparently apply a quality clearcoat, do they recommend a nano sealant or is their clearcoat a nano sealant. Their reply states - we only recommend using Stargard! No help with answering about the quality of their clearcoat. Presumably they recommend Stargard because of a deal offered to MB franchises!! I have emailed MB back asking whether they consider that Stargard is necessary if their clearcoat is up to the job! I also asked whether it is safe to apply wax to their new paint on delivery.
 
I had starguard on the GL as part of the deal.. personally it is about as useful as an ashtray on a motorcycle!
 
I had starguard on the GL as part of the deal.. personally it is about as useful as an ashtray on a motorcycle!

I certainly will NOT be going for Stargard unless it was to be thrown in for free - which it is not!
 
I just do it by hand, panel by panel with an applicator pad then buff it off with a microfibre cloth, let it cure over the whole car for 12+ hours then put another coat on.
 
Brill! Seen some really good reviews on it. Never had a white car before and at the minute I'm finding myself sponging with water first to get the muck off then shampooing and leathering off. Any better ways? Also is the 476 ok to use on glass?

Sorry for all the questions...it's intriguing!
 
Do those of you with white cars regret buying that colour? I am beginning to worry as to whether I have made a sensible choice for my ordered E coupe!!
 
Hello


If you are looking for the best crystal laquer protection then look no further then G-Techniq. IMHO it's one of three crystal glass coats in the world and if completed by a professional, will last 30,000 miles. But in order for it to last the car will need to be washed with a ph neutral shampoo. If you choose to go down this route, it is best that you make sure the paint is in perfect condition.i.e swirl and defect free. This is because once it is layed onto the paint it is extremely difficult to remove to get to defects. The appropriate way to apply is paint correct the car to your desire of perfection. Once your happy, give the car a thorough ipa wipe down. This will ensure the paint is free from fillers as the g-techniq will only bond perfectly to a clean, silicone free paint. So do not hand polish or wax before application of g-techniq C1. When I complete G-Tecniq protection details, below is protected the g-techniq system.

Paint-C1-30,000 miles protection.
Wheels-C5-10 to 12 months protection maybe quite abit longer if washed weekly with a ph neutral shower.
Glass-G1-1 year protection.
Leather-L1-6 months protection.

Other areas are covered with g-techniq products such as T1 for tyres and I1 for fabric roofs etc. I have personally completed 23 G-techniq full new car protection details and 3 on older cars. In fact I'm doing one now on a 55 reg car over 7 day mini overhaul.

So if you have any questions I am more then happy to help.

Cheers Michael
 
I bet they had a right laugh writing this load...

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