Please what is this and whats it for/do etc....or as I suspect not doing...

[rossy]

"Be careful as upgraded 'turbo' seals don't always fit well into the original plastic air intake duct. You might break the ends off while tightening."
Forgot to add this as this is what happened! Hence the Silicone Hose upgrade shown above.....

 

[rossy]

UPDATE :-
OK well that has to be one of the hardest jobs I have ever had to do on a vehicle....for just plain awkwardness.....my back which isnt good on the best of days is well and truly...you know whatted!!!

Only one bolt snapped, not good I know, but concidering its all Exhaust/Turbo/heat and cool etc.....
Anyway....I think its leaking defo internal on both in and out for the turbo (pics below show).... quite a lot of "soldid ish oil" grease like but not runny, I did think oil cooler but there is NO runny oil in the V anywhere....but plenty all around the centre part of the Turbo itself but again its not runny....so maybe the seal between exhaust and air compressors if there is one?
Also still in the Turbo inlet and first time viewing the outlet to intercooler too!!! This still could be expected crank case oil, tho catch can should illiminate this??? Only say this as plenty in the pipe from catch can to turbo. There are no baffles in this catch can as I said before so will be fitting the new one regardless.....it should stop this I hope!!
Exhaust side also shows to me evidance of oil tho again not runny....just black grease like stuff!
Ive seen/read this as being acceptable?

not sure on this being...outlet to intercooler...


This is where the Turbo gets fed its oil....just in front seems to me to be where the most oil spay gunk was, i.e. the centre of the turbo:-


This is the turbo off.....defo wet on the exit side to exhaust....

View from bottom of oil feed in/out, Most of this will be from the original orange seal leaking I'm sure....the wet looking bit lower right is just penatrating oil overspray....hence why its clean!!


This is the GUNKY mess from't where dist came....LOL again when I 1st pulled the turbo off...I thought oil cooler seals but there is no runny oil to be seen....
Also not sure if mensioned before, but when I 1st got this ML it was in my Garage for weeks on a quite freshly painted clean floor and no drips of anything at all on the floor....all trays have been off and obvioulsy grimy but not full of oil.....


So either off to the referb place tomorrow or maybe Monday....there is play in the shaft and very slight back and forth movment, so will be getting a new turbo regardless of it being the cause or not as may as well while its off.
Just wish the oil cooler was easier to get at as ordered the purple seals before realising what was involved which is HUGE and this nearly killed me LOL!

 

[rossy]

New (recon) turbo with full gasket set.....fingers x'd!!!!!

 

[rossy]

Boo Hoo....give me some good luck please!!!!! The one stud that snapped....drilled out fine....go to tape it with my tap n die and yep....snaps off inside....I dont offten sware but FFS!
I've ordered a JCB DiamondTech 6.5mm bit thats just 1 at £24!!!
Any other ideas as a backup welcomed??
Would not mind but its on the EGR pipe were it connects the the Y manifold of the turbo....did not need to undo them....but saw a Vid showing the pipe (very small flexi) being removed.....hay ho...tiz what it is... but you only actualy need to undo from the egr to gain access to a stud....would not mind but everything else came off supprisingly well....

 

[rossy]

This is the intake pipe I had to fit due to the new orange Modified ones cracking the end of the tube.....

Repair Kit Intake Mercedes Benz CDI OM642, £ 18.24

 

[kid-jensen]

That Repair Piece is a great find. I'm sure I'll be needing one very soon..

The broken tap is a real pain, good luck when the drill arrives. I suppose you should be grateful you can get a drill to it in the first place, there can't be many places with enough room to swing a Black & Decker on that engine....

 

[rossy]

That Repair Piece is a great find. I'm sure I'll be needing one very soon..

The broken tap is a real pain, good luck when the drill arrives. I suppose you should be grateful you can get a drill to it in the first place, there can't be many places with enough room to swing a Black & Decker on that engine....

Sorry the Turbo is off...in fact I dont have the original anymore...that will be referbished and no doubt end up on someone elses in the future...
I've got the Y manifold clamped to my workbench and been using morter drills on hammer to chip away at it....as still waiting for the other drill bits I ordered....figure every little bit helps....I'm about half way down the original screw thread now. Slow but sure....as its only for the egr just need it not to BLOW when all back together....pain....

 

[rossy]

ok all back together and smoke issue seems cured...had it running for a good 40 mins.....however its now dumping oil all over the garage floor.....suspect oil cooler seals tho wasnt before so maybe summat I done? so fek it....booked it in for a full checkup at my trusty MB Specialest.
Once they checked the engine is worth it...i.e. nothing magor compression, injectors etc...they are going to strip it again and fit "NEW" oil cooler and purple seals check out the swirl flaps (may as well while there and the start of this post repair with modified gears etc and refit the new motor).....refit turbo etc.....
If this sorts it fine....if not will throw in the towel.....

 

[rossy]

New Turbo installed.......will all be comming off again in Feb when it goes into Indi to hopfully get sorted....but shows the Samco style hose.....



New catch can with baffles, engine cover still fits....12mm internal diameter pipe used....

 

[kid-jensen]

Oil can installation seems to work well, particularly if you can still get the plastic cover on......it's very noisy without it.

Hope you find the oil leak, but realistically, if it didn't leak before, it's unlikely to be the oil cooler seals unless you inadvertently moved the oil cooler...

Still, it keeps you pout of the Pub (or maybe drives you into it!)

 

[rossy]

I'm also wondering if it has too much oil....I've alway checked oil on level ground with engine cold....but at 50 apparently I've been doing wrong all these years!
Engine to be run to normal operating temp, then off and wait 5-10 mins then check?

 

[kid-jensen]

I'd imagine either would give you about the same reading...

 

[m80]

rossy, a thought,
does your PCV still breath freely?
Is there possibility of the oil being blown out of the dip stick hole, ie the dip stick has lifted?

Of interest did you check the refurb turbo for free play?
If I remeber they ride on an oil bearing, dependant on good pressure.

 

[rossy]

rossy, a thought,
does your PCV still breath freely?
Is there possibility of the oil being blown out of the dip stick hole, ie the dip stick has lifted?

Of interest did you check the refurb turbo for free play?
If I remeber they ride on an oil bearing, dependant on good pressure.

All of the above.....it realy realy doing my head in now.....its exactly the same.....what I do not get is even tho I'm sure there is NOTHING wrong with the recon turbo.....I still think its weaping internaly on both sides as the old one did! Now the old turbo DEFO had play only slight and in every direction...so although I'm now sure it was not the cause clearly, I still think it was worth changing....the new (recon) one had no play.
I've been checking again today (I'm not using the ML at the moment as I have use of my father in laws Jeep Liberty...no comments please...its serving its perpose well LOL) and as I said its booked in at an Indi but not until med Feb.
what I realy don't get, is its defo got a blue tint, so would be oil. It takes a good 1/2 hr once engine temp is say 80 before it does it.....it can be cleared by reving (get at lot but then goes) then its another 1/2 hr before it does it again. From reseach this screams over crank pressure! Forcing oil on the turbo out past the seals and bearings....but there is defo no accessive crank pressure....I'd go as far to say same as if it came off the factory floor!
So piston rings.....stem seals seem very unlikly to me....not just because of this...but I feel there would be other signs that just are not there!
I've got oil level at between min and max when cold....so its not too much oil......
I have pulled the pipe off the PCV valve and put my finger over to build slight pressure....i.e. only for a few seconds, to see if there is any blockage....gunk etc forced out put nothing!!!
I'm at a loss....but unfortunaty my Brain will not stop pondering and running though thoughts.....
I drove it again today and its just like it was.....i.e. sweet....pulls nice no smoke that can be seen...and I have had the wife drive behind it and she says there is none.......

What I did notice today running it up to temp in the garage (door open) is what I can only describe as a 3 stage CHOKE....i.e. engine idles say 1100 RMP when 1st started...then at some point drops to say 1000...then when at normal operating temp drops again to 800....the engine (appart from the speed obviously) sounds sweet during all this...but is it Normal~? my guess is it is......

The bottom line is the car is very nice and tidy and clearly been looked after.....and genuinly drives as new appart from this issue.....so much so that I'm happy to pay to have the turbo off (again) and the inlet manifolds, oil cooler and seals and even the swirl flaps sorted while in there etc but if this issue is still there after......? Hence the garage are going to "check" things 1st.....so at least if its got low compression or whatever we can HOLT at that point...be a same tho.....
Will a "dripping" injector cause light blue smoke? ( reseach says white or black )
Kinda doing my head in more that a car can drive so well......possibly even pass an MOT immision test (if they do it 1st say) then fill the garage with smoke after the fact while they check the lights ..... not sure while I'm smiling....
It just has to be something simple....blockage in the sump maybe or other pipe cause high oil pressure just to the turbo? or summat....sigh........................

 

[m80]

The high revs then falling isn't correct. Even cold it should tick over at, to my mind, approx 700, 800 isn't bad though but still seems a bit high.

I had'similar' with the V6 in a Viano, after pouring time, effort, and endless dosh at it I gave up, I needed a mo mo I could drive. My saga, although not continuous went on for 12 months.
A difference is that mine had a smell of over fuelling, but was intemittent. I believe my sump was over pressurising, and as that could denote excess engine wear I sold it.
Another difference between the Viano's and the ML's is that far too many have been taxis and have been clocked.

I don't know what to suggest as your diagnosis so far is consuming your dosh too.
My experience was endless sensor replacements, many, many quids.
New MAF
1st Indy diagnosis,pointless, £78
After market DPF, around £170.
Injectors sent for testing, £80+, one was condemned I sourced a refurbed injector, was assured that they can't be refurbed and recovered that cost.
6 'new' injectors, DPF software upgrade, as I was assured by 2nd Indy that that was the cause, it wasn't £1,639.
Said Indy recommneded DPF removal and remap, £250, no difference.
Other inconviences and costs also.

I hope you can diagnose yours better than I with mine.

 

[rossy]

 

[kid-jensen]

The idle speed dropping over a period of time happens to mine too, I'm sure this is normal in cold weather.

Starts at 1100 revs and drops in stages to about 700. Doesn't do it at all from April to October.

I hope you get some concrete diagnosis from the indy, but realistically, idling for 15-20mins is asking for trouble. If you went to a doctor and said "it hurts when I jam my finger in my ear", he'd tell you to stop doing it.

If you get insignificant oil smoke during normal driving (and it doesn't fail MOT on emissions), I'd just live with it......you've spent the cash and got yourself dirty quite enough!

 

[rossy]

The idle speed dropping over a period of time happens to mine too, I'm sure this is normal in cold weather.

Starts at 1100 revs and drops in stages to about 700. Doesn't do it at all from April to October.

I hope you get some concrete diagnosis from the indy, but realistically, idling for 15-20mins is asking for trouble. If you went to a doctor and said "it hurts when I jam my finger in my ear", he'd tell you to stop doing it.

If you get insignificant oil smoke during normal driving (and it doesn't fail MOT on emissions), I'd just live with it......you've spent the cash and got yourself dirty quite enough!

I hear you but I have a hard time running any vehicle I know has an issue or is not right. Every MOT i've waiting for and been able to watch they leave the engine running the whole time....
As I said earlier, would you not be botther sat behind me then in a traffic jam on the motorway? Or worse jam clears we all set off...then you run into the back of me when we all slam on again coz you dont see my lights?

Also waiting until the MOT runs out gives other issues.....if it fails its off the road until its fixed....

I'm going to ring the Indi and see if I can get it booked in for the DIAG earlier.....the MID Feb booking was to allow for the oil cooler to be done etc....

 

[rossy]

Going in Thursday 30th Jan for Diag....

 

[kid-jensen]

I understand that it's not fun living with "known faults", I used to be like that, but years of getting dirty on cars has ground this attitude out of me!

The mortorway-jam situation is fair enough, but I've ALWAYS switched-off the engine when stationary for any significant time because I don't like the smell of exhaust, and don't want to waste fuel. I notice most other cars around me do the same.

I can't remember how long the car is idling for the emissions part of the MOT, but I'd be surprised if it was as much as 15-20 mins. However, I can remember the testers revving the nuts off it on several occasions though.

Seems like a good idea to go to an MOT station and ask them to do an emission test. That way you will know that you definitely DON'T have the option to leave well alone, and can plan for spending serious money. Be realistic though, it's easy to get suckered-into spending more than the car's worth.

Sometimes it really is the sensible option to just sell-on or scrap it.