• The Forums are now open to new registrations, adverts are also being de-tuned.

What Have You Done To Your Merc Today?

New side repeaters on; it doesn't really show on the photo but the old ones were yellowing a bit, plus the seals had gone so they were full of condensation.
View attachment 127347

Then on with the genuine AMG valve caps (reassuringly expensive 🤦🏼‍♂️)...
View attachment 127348
View attachment 127349
I also managed to pull the cluster out without cracking it to replace a dash bulb too, which I'd been putting off for weeks due to "the fear" 😂.

Oh and I put my sign up that my Missus bought me...
View attachment 127350
Not sure what she means? 🤷🏼‍♂️😂
Like I always say to Mrs Spiky when she calls me a grumpy old ****
"0i! Less of the old"
 
New side repeaters on; it doesn't really show on the photo but the old ones were yellowing a bit, plus the seals had gone so they were full of condensation.
View attachment 127347

Then on with the genuine AMG valve caps (reassuringly expensive 🤦🏼‍♂️)...
View attachment 127348
View attachment 127349
I also managed to pull the cluster out without cracking it to replace a dash bulb too, which I'd been putting off for weeks due to "the fear" 😂.

Oh and I put my sign up that my Missus bought me...
View attachment 127350
Not sure what she means? 🤷🏼‍♂️😂
You really need to change those ancient and perished valves! They should be changed every tyre change so I'm guessing you have not had tyres for a while. If they are not leaking air already they will be soon.
 
Gave it a blood transfusion… once I could get the seized bonnet latches open!

Managed to spill a bunch of the oil too, fun!
 

Attachments

  • 0AB1D4A4-DEC1-4C96-91CE-1346457B7A8E.jpeg
    0AB1D4A4-DEC1-4C96-91CE-1346457B7A8E.jpeg
    643.2 KB · Views: 13
Finally had 722.6 gearbox serviced (atf fluid, filter, gasket and pilot bushing changed) on W203 @ 116k miles (should have done it a lot sooner). Was a job I was contemplating half doing myself (drain the transmission sump fluid but not the torque converter) but never got around to it and actually ‘glad’ I didn’t as the technician remarked that the electric plug bushing had begun to fill with fluid and I’m not sure if I’d have swapped that out had I done ‘half’ the job.
 
Last edited:
I’ve got the same/ v.similar oil vacuum extractor, really makes the job easy.
Right!

Just make sure you don't spill oil everywhere...

Once I extracted all the oil I actually left the car overnight for the oil to drain down a bit more... probably extracted an extra 300-500ml. I do worry that it's not getting as much out as I'd hoped, I probably extracted around 7.5L. I think it was the same with a sump plug drain, though.

I think next time will be via sump plug as this is the second or third change via the pump.

I'm due a gearbox service soon, too, and a brake fluid flush...
 
Right!

Just make sure you don't spill oil everywhere...

Once I extracted all the oil I actually left the car overnight for the oil to drain down a bit more... probably extracted an extra 300-500ml. I do worry that it's not getting as much out as I'd hoped, I probably extracted around 7.5L. I think it was the same with a sump plug drain, though.

I think next time will be via sump plug as this is the second or third change via the pump.

I'm due a gearbox service soon, too, and a brake fluid flush...
Yes lol (re: oil spilling) … I’m quite happy with the extraction method, it seems faster and comprehensive enough (I do it when the oil is a little bit warm) I rummage around a bit with the tube and pump device a bit more then you can kind of hear/see it slurping up the remaining bits of oil. I always forget to soak the new oil filter in new oil - apparently that’s the better way to do an oil change as it prevents the engine running dry.

With the draining underneath method, I’d imagine a lot depends on the internal shape of the base of the sump pan and how level the ground is when draining.
 
Just topped the tyre pressures up to 35/36 to increase the mpg . All my life I’ve always just put them at 32/33 regardless .

Did the E class lower rear control arms the other day , 6 hours all in ….it’s fiddly on axle stands . I thought the final 120 degrees turn on the main camber bolt to the body work was going to loose me a few inches of intestine that might need pushing back in …rubber gloves anyone ?

Car feels good now after the front alignment was done as well .

I still have an very slight low knock from the front , so as my final final attempt to make it go away I’m going to replace the ball joints that are on the very top of the E class hub carrier …£40 for the pair from Autodoc . After that replacement everything apart from the front shocks have been done .
 
Have many problems getting the old bolts out on the suspension arms @W1ghty?

I have all the arms/ball joints read to go on my W212 and am going to have to DIY in order to save a bit of cash. I did the drop links last year but failed with the other arms, but I only had a small socket set and a wheel breaker bar... I now realise I need a massive wrench extension to get the leverage, but it's difficult when the car isn't far off the ground. On a lift, should be fine...
 
Have many problems getting the old bolts out on the suspension arms @W1ghty?

I have all the arms/ball joints read to go on my W212 and am going to have to DIY in order to save a bit of cash. I did the drop links last year but failed with the other arms, but I only had a small socket set and a wheel breaker bar... I now realise I need a massive wrench extension to get the leverage, but it's difficult when the car isn't far off the ground. On a lift, should be fine...
With the wheels off on axle stands there was actually pretty good access for a 12-18 ratchet .

The hardest bit was as I said getting the camber bolt torqued , but you could pay a garage 5 mins to get that one correctly done on a ramp ?

The tightening of that bolt is when the cars weight is back onto wheels …so for this part bit I drove onto axle stands after doing all the other bolts up correctly . I marked the bolt with yellow marker after doing the first 80nm tighten . Between you and me of the second 120 degree tighten I only got to 90 degrees :rolleyes: .

I don’t know what a garage would charge to change the arm but it would be at least 2 hours ??

Torque wrench up to 165nm is needed and one or 2 large 21mm spanner’s help . Have a look on eBay for a spanner extension arm as well , I keep meaning to buy one .

 
Last edited:
Thanks for that. Yes I have two control arms (upper and lower) and a ball joint per side (w212 is McPherson vs double wishbone 211) - I already have the parts - but I think it would be 4-5h labour for an indie to do it for me, plus £100 for 4wheel tracking/alignment. I already need a gearbox service and brake fluid flush so could easily mount to £1k+ in maintenance…

I do have ramps (for torquing) and ball joint breaker, is just need the extension bar, but it’s certainly not an easy job…
 
Last edited:
Finally got round to doing a proper clean and rubber conditioner (Gummi Pflege) on all my roof seals on my R230 SL55... and used my new Mercedes roof prop tool for the first time as well !! (no not a piece of wood!) without this the roof will automatically close on its own, and on your fingers!

20220525_110439.jpg20220525_110449.jpg20220525_110506.jpg20220525_110522.jpg20220525_112234.jpg20220525_121750.jpg20220525_121806.jpg
 
Well my Lady went for Mot (pass No advisorys) Service and had Air con Re-gas , So took Missus out for garden centre trip via M18 and M62 of course they had to be road work`s typical, looking online for her some new mirror indicators these spotted a bit of condensation in top bit.
 
Did the E class headlights yesterday , so just treated the CLK to the same work . This time I thought I would take some pics . I used sandpaper of the grades 1500,2000 then 2500 with some spray lube . These correspond to the first 3 pics .
I never took a before pic because they weren’t that bad , a bit of UV scum on the top 1/3rd .
I took the pics mainly because of the trauma when you first use sandpaper on headlights , you just have to keep saying “IT WILL POLISH OUT” over and over again .
All done by hand apart from the stage with the Meguiars where I used the DA polisher
0A7D1C6C-93C5-4B4C-BCBC-6844AE7FD0A1.jpeg06867854-1BD3-4DCF-B917-A18E3443F661.jpegC8F469BA-EC49-4364-8596-87FEBD0E756C.jpeg43076CE6-B23E-4A10-8682-0948D45C5272.jpeg969C1CD6-8522-4BB9-95BF-8A624F4F0495.jpeg
edit , the first 1500 grit pic is missing .
 
Hopefully you sealed them with a UV sealant afterwards....now you have sanded all the original UV proofing off......... they will go cloudy twice as quick if you didn't.
I like that headlight design....but from a distance they always look half full of water to my eye!!!
 
Hopefully you sealed them with a UV sealant afterwards....now you have sanded all the original UV proofing off......... they will go cloudy twice as quick if you didn't.
I like that headlight design....but from a distance they always look half full of water to my eye!!!
That’s tomorrows job when it’s guaranteed dry :)
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom