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What Have You Done To Your Merc Today?

Bin the silicone and use this stuff , it's what they use in the factory. Pull off any rubber seal trims , apply this around the metalwork and reseat the rubber trim. It's not just the rubber seal that stops water getting in. Water gets in through where the seal attaches to the car . Its flexible and doesn't dry out .
That’s an amazing product. I use it regularly. 👌👏👍
 
It’s easy to do a gearbox sump atf change with a suction pump as well . £34 for 4L of Fuchs AtF4134 :)
Or do it properly and get the sump plug out. I've never used a pump in all my years of changing oil (both personally and professionally)....and having helped someone remove a sump after he "emptied it" with a pump I'll carry on doing it that way! I know main Merc dealers use them....but Im not convinced.
 
Or do it properly and get the sump plug out. I've never used a pump in all my years of changing oil (both personally and professionally)....and having helped someone remove a sump after he "emptied it" with a pump I'll carry on doing it that way! I know main Merc dealers use them....but Im not convinced.

I suppose you could drain it as you say ' properly ' on the 3rd oil change , for what you'd gain or lose I'm not sure ??
 
Or do it properly and get the sump plug out. I've never used a pump in all my years of changing oil (both personally and professionally)....and having helped someone remove a sump after he "emptied it" with a pump I'll carry on doing it that way! I know main Merc dealers use them....but Im not convinced.
Fwiw, I am in precisely the same position as Mr A.
I have never ever used a vacuum system for removal and, despite the fact that I can quite easily see that it is a far cleaner and easier operation, if I am taking the time to do a service on a vehicle of mine then I would prefer to do it properly rather than cleanly.
I suppose you could drain it as you say ' properly ' on the 3rd oil change , for what you'd gain or lose I'm not sure ??
I actually take it beyond just draining from the sump. I always drain engines when they are up to temp, ideally after I return from a trip where the oil will have been sloshing about inside. I have a large metal collection vessel that I place underneath the hot engine (avoiding the exhaust manifold, previous burnt knuckles have taught me to be cautious). THEN switch off the engine, remove the filler cap and release the sump plug with a socket.
I then leave for a few hours, so that every drop is released.
When I have re-filled with the new oil, I keep the containers. After a couple of days resting in my garage I carefully decant the old oil out from the collection vessel using a clear pouring jug, into the those saved oil cans that I take them to our council dump in.
I hold each clear jug in front of an LED spotlight before pouring it, to view the contents. I also have an old kitchen spatula that I use to scrape the vessel out with, also to inspect the detritus that settled to the bottom.
I realise it all sounds "a bit" less straightforward than the way your professional Mercedes technician would choose, but I'm used to doing it "my way" and all set up to do so.
 
Fwiw, I am in precisely the same position as Mr A.
I have never ever used a vacuum system for removal and, despite the fact that I can quite easily see that it is a far cleaner and easier operation, if I am taking the time to do a service on a vehicle of mine then I would prefer to do it properly rather than cleanly.

I actually take it beyond just draining from the sump. I always drain engines when they are up to temp, ideally after I return from a trip where the oil will have been sloshing about inside. I have a large metal collection vessel that I place underneath the hot engine (avoiding the exhaust manifold, previous burnt knuckles have taught me to be cautious). THEN switch off the engine, remove the filler cap and release the sump plug with a socket.
I then leave for a few hours, so that every drop is released.
When I have re-filled with the new oil, I keep the containers. After a couple of days resting in my garage I carefully decant the old oil out from the collection vessel using a clear pouring jug, into the those saved oil cans that I take them to our council dump in.
I hold each clear jug in front of an LED spotlight before pouring it, to view the contents. I also have an old kitchen spatula that I use to scrape the vessel out with, also to inspect the detritus that settled to the bottom.
I realise it all sounds "a bit" less straightforward than the way your professional Mercedes technician would choose, but I'm used to doing it "my way" and all set up to do so.
Pumps don't work on cold oil.
 
Pumps don't work on cold oil.
LOL, I can well believe it mate.! Would be like pumping syrup (and that's without the addition of accumulated detritus).
On the same subject, as I said I've never used one but I have seen a few DIY ones that look rather "flimsy plasticky" , presumably you wouldn't want use them on hot oil. Goldilocks temps' only perhaps.?
 
LOL, I can well believe it mate.! Would be like pumping syrup (and that's without the addition of accumulated detritus).
On the same subject, as I said I've never used one but I have seen a few DIY ones that look rather "flimsy plasticky" , presumably you wouldn't want use them on hot oil. Goldilocks temps' only perhaps.?
Hotter the better tbh.
 
Fwiw, I am in precisely the same position as Mr A.
I have never ever used a vacuum system for removal and, despite the fact that I can quite easily see that it is a far cleaner and easier operation, if I am taking the time to do a service on a vehicle of mine then I would prefer to do it properly rather than cleanly.

I self-serviced my last Jag a couple of times using a vacuum pump, both times I got about 7 litres out - service fill capacity for that engine was 7.25L. The official workshop manual stated that either the pump method or the traditional way were equally valid for servicing. Procedure for both said to run the engine for long enough for the oil to reach 45 celsius, switch off for ten minutes before starting, this way any sediment in the oil will be mixed through so that last quarter litre won't make any odds.

One guy actually went as far as to lift the car and remove the sump plug after draining the oil via the suction pump, he said only another trickle came out. One caveat though, the 5 litre Jaguar V8 engine actually has a dedicated pipe specifically for connecting the suction pump to; the engine has been designed to be drained that way. Mileage with this method on other engines may vary I guess.
 
I self-serviced my last Jag a couple of times using a vacuum pump, both times I got about 7 litres out - service fill capacity for that engine was 7.25L. The official workshop manual stated that either the pump method or the traditional way were equally valid for servicing. Procedure for both said to run the engine for long enough for the oil to reach 45 celsius, switch off for ten minutes before starting, this way any sediment in the oil will be mixed through so that last quarter litre won't make any odds.

One guy actually went as far as to lift the car and remove the sump plug after draining the oil via the suction pump, he said only another trickle came out. One caveat though, the 5 litre Jaguar V8 engine actually has a dedicated pipe specifically for connecting the suction pump to; the engine has been designed to be drained that way. Mileage with this method on other engines may vary I guess.
On another note , some sump plugs are located at the side and not facing south . Making a pump a safer bet at removing a better % of old oil.
 
Or do it properly and get the sump plug out. I've never used a pump in all my years of changing oil (both personally and professionally)....and having helped someone remove a sump after he "emptied it" with a pump I'll carry on doing it that way! I know main Merc dealers use them....but Im not convinced.
I do both buddy , I even fitted magnetic sump plugs last time I did an old fashioned oil change :) .
Its still a super good piece of kit for the home mechanic or those that are too old to be crawling under cars
 
Are you still aiming for an E63S w213?
Yes Jules. Hard to justify the jump in price from a 212 but I've been there and want the updated interior of the 213.
Looking like I'll leave it until next year though as I have my sensible head on. It will hardly be used until the middle of next year which was the reason the W212 E63 was sold. But I miss being in an AMG and continually look at Autotrader to see what is on offer.
It would have to be something special and the exact spec I'm looking for to change my mind.
 
Yes Jules. Hard to justify the jump in price from a 212 but I've been there and want the updated interior of the 213.
Looking like I'll leave it until next year though as I have my sensible head on. It will hardly be used until the middle of next year which was the reason the W212 E63 was sold. But I miss being in an AMG and continually look at Autotrader to see what is on offer.
It would have to be something special and the exact spec I'm looking for to change my mind.
That’s good to hear and you are right to hold out for the right spec. Prices have softened and will continue to do so for a while, so puts you into a good position to pounce when the right one appears.
 
Another day, another service. Choosing to pay cash this time, rather than renew the service contract. It’s a Service B with no additional items so it’s around half the price of covering it under a service plan.

The last service was the opposite end of the scale though with transmission fluid, spark plugs, brake fluid and filters, which would easily exceed the equivalent cost when paid for through a service plan.

Glad I took a screenshot of the online booking confirmation as when I arrived the service advisor claimed that the cost was precisely £60 more than the online booking confirmed, which doesn’t sit well with me.

Ironically the bill when presented was £3 less when the service had been completed!
 
Finally confirmed the EBay diff I installed at the beginning of June was the wrong ratio and have removed from car. After further research I have decided to replace it with another eBay purchase (£105 delivered) and have confirmed with new supplier it is a 3.27:1 ratio. Prices to refurbish my existing one ranged from 240 to 300 (cars only worth about £1000) Will update with my tales of woe when I have installed and tested the recycled part. Have a good diff with 3.45:1 ratio for sale, and a slightly loose 3.27:1.
My tales of woe may help others when the car goes into transmission limp mode, and the first thought is to change the conductor plate. ABS cables and differentials can also be the culprits.
 
Yesterday I took the Thule bike racks off and stacked them in the the shed. Today I'll take the roof bars off and give the car a clean. I hope.

Trouble is that, when I got back from 16 day's holiday on Sunday, the lawn had gone wild as had various climbers and shrubs. I sorted all that out yesterday. But the the hedges out front are still looking horribly shaggy......
 
Took front wheels off the Glc to change front pads to discover plenty left on the ones fitted , so cleaned the wheels up with brake dust cleaner (insides baked on ruby coloured crap ) . Removed rear wheels , cleaned them up also , not quite as bad .



Fitted a rubber boot liner to keep the interior clean when out walking the mutt .
 

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