No worries mate
Another newbie - C63 AMG Coupe
- Thread starter 8bit
- Start date
- Joined
- Nov 1, 2008
- Messages
- 19,499
- Location
- Bournemouth/Poole Dorset
- Car
- W210 E280 x2, w211 E55, W212 E63 biturbo, S204 C180K
MB Edinburgh have these AMG fuel filler caps in their eBay shop now.
Part# A0004703201 £144 99 delivered.
Genuine Mercedes-Benz AMG Fuel Filler Cap A0004703201 | eBay
Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Genuine Mercedes-Benz AMG Fuel Filler Cap A0004703201 at the best online prices at eBay! Free delivery for many products.
www.ebay.co.uk
Skd884
MB Enthusiast
- Joined
- Sep 13, 2017
- Messages
- 3,979
- Car
- i3
Mercedes-Benz AMG fuel filler cap A0004703201 | eBay
Customization with a sporty accent. AMF Fuel Filler Cap. Only for vehicles with combustion engine (gasoline / diesel) and no plug-in hybrid. Is this item compatible with your vehicle?. Fair wear and tear and parts fitting incorrectly are not covered under this warranty.
www.ebay.co.uk
124.80£
Stevie1982
Active Member
- Joined
- May 8, 2016
- Messages
- 501
- Car
- 2014 C63 AMG
This is where I got mine from.Mercedes-Benz AMG fuel filler cap A0004703201 | eBay
Customization with a sporty accent. AMF Fuel Filler Cap. Only for vehicles with combustion engine (gasoline / diesel) and no plug-in hybrid. Is this item compatible with your vehicle?. Fair wear and tear and parts fitting incorrectly are not covered under this warranty.www.ebay.co.uk
124.80£
Fits the W212
My original engine cover had the Mercedes badge missing and the cover itself was tatty and split on one side. Found a replacement on ebay and got that swapped out:
Looks much nicer but now the airboxes look a little old beside it. I did spray them a bit with brake cleaner which helped but they still don't match. Not sure if that's heat cycles that have permanently discoloured the plastic or if it's stubborn dirt. If I get a chance at the weekend I may remove the airbox covers and try and clean them with some all-purpose cleaner or similar.
Had the car at a Scottish Jaguar XK/XKR owner's club breakfast meet at the weekend, they still let me come along even though I no longer have an XKR
Took the scenic route home with another chap who lives near me. He has a 5.0 XKR, very similar to my last one so it was interesting seeing how they compare on some of Scotlands best sweeping mountain passes and twisty B roads. I definitely had to work the Merc hard to keep up with him, the XKR's supercharged 5 litre V8 is so effortlessly fast almost anywhere in the rev range. The Mercedes feels more planted in the corners though, especially with the mechanical LSD compared to the e-diff that the Jag has.
Looks much nicer but now the airboxes look a little old beside it. I did spray them a bit with brake cleaner which helped but they still don't match. Not sure if that's heat cycles that have permanently discoloured the plastic or if it's stubborn dirt. If I get a chance at the weekend I may remove the airbox covers and try and clean them with some all-purpose cleaner or similar.
Had the car at a Scottish Jaguar XK/XKR owner's club breakfast meet at the weekend, they still let me come along even though I no longer have an XKR
Took the scenic route home with another chap who lives near me. He has a 5.0 XKR, very similar to my last one so it was interesting seeing how they compare on some of Scotlands best sweeping mountain passes and twisty B roads. I definitely had to work the Merc hard to keep up with him, the XKR's supercharged 5 litre V8 is so effortlessly fast almost anywhere in the rev range. The Mercedes feels more planted in the corners though, especially with the mechanical LSD compared to the e-diff that the Jag has.My original engine cover had the Mercedes badge missing and the cover itself was tatty and split on one side. Found a replacement on ebay and got that swapped out:
View attachment 145646
Looks much nicer but now the airboxes look a little old beside it. I did spray them a bit with brake cleaner which helped but they still don't match. Not sure if that's heat cycles that have permanently discoloured the plastic or if it's stubborn dirt. If I get a chance at the weekend I may remove the airbox covers and try and clean them with some all-purpose cleaner or similar.
Had the car at a Scottish Jaguar XK/XKR owner's club breakfast meet at the weekend, they still let me come along even though I no longer have an XKR
Are you running on stock tune? MSL is a bit of a trip but worth visiting, they should be able to increase the stock power up to 510bhp or there abouts. After that it should liven up a bit and ready to take on the beautiful Scottish Highlands
As far as I'm aware it is stock, yes. Don't get me wrong, it doesn't feel slow - just different. The XKR 5.0 V8 is supercharged as standard so there's a bit more torque available from the mid range. The M156 is lazier in the low to mid range but then very potent once above about 4krpm or so.
I am tempted to get the car mapped, I'd probably look for a more local tuner though. There's a Celtic Tuning dealer near me who get a good reputation.
I am tempted to get the car mapped, I'd probably look for a more local tuner though. There's a Celtic Tuning dealer near me who get a good reputation.
Thanks! There was a thread on here about remap options which is where I heard about the local Celtic dealer. If I decide to go for it I'll contact Steve first. Next things on the agenda though are to do the cam adjuster rebuilds and maybe fit an Android Auto/Carplay module. It's also due the B1 service in October/November so that'll no doubt be a few quid, even at my local specialist.
Steve84N
MB Enthusiast
Mine was mapped by Celtic Tuning as they came recommended through a Merc specialist called PCS Horndean, who themselves are highly regarded.
I was happy as it's a bit cheaper than some of the others, I had no issues and it had the desired effect on performance without any silly pops etc.
Unless you've got other mods then there's no need for a bespoke dyno tune. The map is developed for the engine and it works. Simples.
I was happy as it's a bit cheaper than some of the others, I had no issues and it had the desired effect on performance without any silly pops etc.
Unless you've got other mods then there's no need for a bespoke dyno tune. The map is developed for the engine and it works. Simples.
Now that it's getting dark earlier in the evenings again, I was reminded of something else I'd been meaning to address on the car - the interior light bulbs. The standard ones give a very warm, sort of dated look (IMHO) so I got myself a kit of LED bulbs from ebay and changed them out yesterday.
The kit came with clear instructions, a plastic trim removal tool and all the bulbs separated into little ziplock bags clearly marked with which area they were for. The kit had lights for the front dome, rear dome, sunvisor vanity mirrors, the boot and the footwells. My car doesn't have the footwell lights so skipped those, and the kit had three bulbs for the rear dome which I think may have been the pre-facelift or perhaps the saloon/estate models as mine only has one.
Fitted without any real difficulty, you can see the difference in light between the original and new bulbs (left and right respectively) below:
The kit came with clear instructions, a plastic trim removal tool and all the bulbs separated into little ziplock bags clearly marked with which area they were for. The kit had lights for the front dome, rear dome, sunvisor vanity mirrors, the boot and the footwells. My car doesn't have the footwell lights so skipped those, and the kit had three bulbs for the rear dome which I think may have been the pre-facelift or perhaps the saloon/estate models as mine only has one.
Fitted without any real difficulty, you can see the difference in light between the original and new bulbs (left and right respectively) below:
sgregory124
MB Enthusiast
Never really understood the desire for super clinical, white lighting inside the car…..
We all have different preferences I guess The original bulb probably makes the new one look colder than it is, and vice versa - the new one makes the original look more orangey than it really is.
If I'd had the time and energy to figure out what lamps take which bulbs (think they're all the same as it turns out) and to research and source bulbs of a slightly warmer colour than these are I'd have done that. For what it cost, IMHO it's not perfect but a marked improvement.
The original bulb probably makes the new one look colder than it is, and vice versa - the new one makes the original look more orangey than it really is.If I'd had the time and energy to figure out what lamps take which bulbs (think they're all the same as it turns out) and to research and source bulbs of a slightly warmer colour than these are I'd have done that. For what it cost, IMHO it's not perfect but a marked improvement.
ALFAitalia
MB Enthusiast
- Joined
- Feb 19, 2022
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- 7,190
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- Bognor Regis
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- 2010 Mercedes W212 E Class E350 CDI Sport, 2006 Mercedes W169 A Class A170.
No fault codes thrown up or anything? I had to go back to std type bulbs on my car.....the very low current draw confused the BCM and was preventing the car from "sleeping" and this meant that after I fitted them I started to get a flat battery after not driving her for a couple of days.....took a while to figure out the issue too!
I liked the brighter whiter light....if nothing else I could see stuff better when I dropped it.......!
It's stupidly white and bright number LED plate lights that I hate.....and they look daft from behind.
I liked the brighter whiter light....if nothing else I could see stuff better when I dropped it.......!
It's stupidly white and bright number LED plate lights that I hate.....and they look daft from behind.
That's a good shout, thanks. Nothing showing on the dashboard certainly but I haven't plugged the car in to scan it directly, I'll do that later today. The bulbs are sold as being CANBUS friendly and have resistors on the little PCBs, I guess that doesn't confirm anything much though. I did a similar job on my last XKR and had no issues there - Jags are notorious for battery issues with any sort of electrical issue or anything the car does not like.
I'm with you on the silly rear number plate floodlights that some (mostly Audi owners!) seem to install. The standard ones on this car seem to be quite a cool, plain white colour already so I won't be changing those unless one fails.
I'm with you on the silly rear number plate floodlights that some (mostly Audi owners!) seem to install. The standard ones on this car seem to be quite a cool, plain white colour already so I won't be changing those unless one fails.
Ordered the cam adjuster rebuild kit (for all four) from 63 Motorsports just now. Pretty sure the startup rattles are getting slowly worse. Need to get the timing lock kit and I guess a fresh set of cam cover gaskets, anything else required?
Just the handy tools, tork bit set to open up, lots of old rags, brake cleaning fluid (a few spray cans).
Small hand mirror and torch to set the timing to 40degree. I found removing the fans and radiator gives a lot more access, so usefull to keep some distilled water and antifreeze handy.
Also need the following parts.
4x new phaser bolts and washers.
Replace the front timing cover gasket (advisable)
Replace the top timing cover (advisable)
Will watch this thread and support you through the process
Small hand mirror and torch to set the timing to 40degree. I found removing the fans and radiator gives a lot more access, so usefull to keep some distilled water and antifreeze handy.
Also need the following parts.
4x new phaser bolts and washers.
Replace the front timing cover gasket (advisable)
Replace the top timing cover (advisable)
Will watch this thread and support you through the process
Thank you sir!
Regards the other parts, I had the nearside top cam cover replaced under warranty a few months ago, can I safely just replace the gaskets for that as well as the front cover gasket? Also, where are the phaser bolts you mention?
As for doing the job, can it be done from the front of the car or is there much need to get down the sides? My garage is fairly narrow so if it can be done front only then I can do it in the garage and not have to worry about running out of time, daylight or dry weather.
Regards the other parts, I had the nearside top cam cover replaced under warranty a few months ago, can I safely just replace the gaskets for that as well as the front cover gasket? Also, where are the phaser bolts you mention?
As for doing the job, can it be done from the front of the car or is there much need to get down the sides? My garage is fairly narrow so if it can be done front only then I can do it in the garage and not have to worry about running out of time, daylight or dry weather.
