rear frame bushes seat, rusty...How bad is this?

[230K]

Hi

Do not panic yet,metal expands to 12 times its volume when it rusts so heavy sections always look worse than they are. It might, just might be still ok with a good clean with a chipping hammer and a wire brush. Drop the 2 front subframe bolts and have a closer look.

230K

 

[Number_Cruncher]

>>with a chipping hammer

I fully agree.

Although many are shy of probing rust agressively with something like a chipping hammer, it really is the best way to determine the extent of the rust. You can't (in any seriousness!) weld to anything less than good metal, so, there's no point in being afraid of giving the area some tapping and poking.

See the standard MOT tool for an example of a good probing tool - see Ebay item 110457472377 for an example - the metal spade/screwdriver end is particularly useful to identify complete perforation, whereas the rubber/plastic end is more useful to tap and listen - a dull noise signifies poor metal, or filler!

I'm sure you'll have something in your toolbox which will work perfectly well as a corrosion assessment tool!

 

[alexander patie]

i doubt very much that it is at the point of being a safety issue, i know these chassis well, there is plenty of strength left there yet. obviously it does need repairing at some time, and that bush looks 'shot to bits' to me, absolutely worn out!!!

 

[230K]

Hi

It is hard to tell with the bushing whether it is shot or not IMHO.

I agree that she is safe to drive in the current state.

230K

 

[dervdoc]

i doubt very much that it is at the point of being a safety issue, i know these chassis well, there is plenty of strength left there yet. obviously it does need repairing at some time, and that bush looks 'shot to bits' to me, absolutely worn out!!!

Hi

It is hard to tell with the bushing whether it is shot or not IMHO.

I agree that she is safe to drive in the current state.

230K

i wud agree also, iv just overhauled the hole rear axle and my font bushes might as wel have not hadd a bolt in them at all they wer that badly shot and still drove 100% and still passed mot with 2 dud front bushes

 

[alexander patie]

i am not saying the bushes are a safety issue at all. but they sure can make the clunkning sound the OP mentioned at the start of this thread. if one has a close look at the picture one can clearly see the aluminium inner of the bush is torn away from the rubber, it is also shiny showing it has moved around in the rubber. this problem can cause instability, particularly when cornering hard.

 

[230K]

i am not saying the bushes are a safety issue at all. but they sure can make the clunkning sound the OP mentioned at the start of this thread. if one has a close look at the picture one can clearly see the aluminium inner of the bush is torn away from the rubber, it is also shiny showing it has moved around in the rubber. this problem can cause instability, particularly when cornering hard.

No sign of oil having leaked out of them though,(sure sign of them being shot) hard to tell from pic though.

230K

 

[lynall]

Pretty certain no oil in the subframe bushs they are just std rubber bushs.



Lynall

 

[alexander patie]

yup no oil in these. in the picture you can CLEARLY see a 3mm gap between the rubber and the cast aluminium center piece!!

 

[230K]

Guys

The front bushes on the rear subframe of a 210 are oil filled. I have changed them and had to wreck them out and got covered in the blody stuff.

230K

 

[Olivier]

How hard was it to change them? Lynall send me a pdf on it and it look like its no the easiest thing to do.
Thank you.
Olivier

 

[BlackC55]

That is a difficult item to repair as the shape is awkward.

It is really a specilaist bodyshop job

 

[Olivier]

Hi Olly,
thank you. You guess on the rear bushes and clunk you were right. Well thought.
Olivier

 

[Olivier]

There is a hole...
How on earth some steel that as been prepared, coated, sealed, paint and what ever more can go that bad. I had a Landy 1975 that was a lot less rusty and it was 20 years older...
This is beyond me

 

[dervdoc]

u wanna sell her?i like a challange lol...

 

[Olivier]

Hi Dervoc,
How much would you be offering?
Look at the list of new/ as new parts fitted in the last year and half:
Clear fuel pipes/ Orings, rubber pipes.
Front disk brakes
Front brake pads
Brake worn sensors
Injectors
Glow plug relay
Glow plugs
Front bearings
Front perchs ( MB goodwill, thank you)
Front ball joint right side
Front dampers, BOGE
Engine mounts
Gearbox mount
Fan/ steering belt
Falken tyres
New fluids, gearbox/ Steering power/ differential
Got the brake fluids gizmo to change it but didn't go around it yet
Driver side mirror complete
Pop-shaft central bearing
Prop-shaft central bearing mount
Differencial side seals
Differencial fluid
Differencial mounts
PSE pump installed and reprogammed
Switch on the boot cental lock
On top of this you have:
Waste gate tweaked
EGR electronicly removed
IP timing advanced
This to give you a little rusty car but I guess one of the fastest and responsive E300TD
Olivier
PS: There might be more that I forgot to mention on the way ?
I also clean the Duo valves and just changed the coolant with 3 MB bottle and de-ionised water.
Again, I am sure there is more but I forgot.
Some I forgot:
battery
right wing as been changed for a new one
left wing is here with me, just need a coat and be mounted.

 

[alexander patie]

Guys

The front bushes on the rear subframe of a 210 are oil filled. I have changed them and had to wreck them out and got covered in the blody stuff.

230K

fair enough, but the fact is that the inner cast aluminium piece that is supposed to be bonded to the rubber is torn away and there is a visible gap in the photo.

olivier, no stress, this is a fairly simple welding job for the profficient, and there is plenty of strength left in the chassis.

 

[Number_Cruncher]

I would imagine you'll have to drop the subframe off to give enough access to weld down the inside of the mounting boss.

However, once you've got good access, I think AP is right, the welding itself is fairly straightforward.

I think the piccies in this thread are a timely warning to those of us with cars with similar rear suspensions.

On my W124, I found the plastic protection had lifted, and so, I removed it, and I found some rust - thankfully, nowhere near as bad as Oliviers - so, I cleaned the area up, and applied some new protection. However, had I left it, I imagine I would now be facing the same repair that Olivier is contemplating.

I found that dropping the subframe a bit to change the bush gave me enough room to get in and do a good job of cleaning and rustproofing, but, I'm not sure it gives enough access to weld.

 

[dervdoc]

Hi Dervoc,
How much would you be offering?
Look at the list of new/ as new parts fitted in the last year and half:
Clear fuel pipes/ Orings, rubber pipes.
Front disk brakes
Front brake pads
Brake worn sensors
Injectors
Glow plug relay
Glow plugs
Front bearings
Front perchs ( MB goodwill, thank you)
Front ball joint right side
Front dampers, BOGE
Engine mounts
Gearbox mount
Fan/ steering belt
Falken tyres
New fluids, gearbox/ Steering power/ differential
Got the brake fluids gizmo to change it but didn't go around it yet
Driver side mirror complete
Pop-shaft central bearing
Prop-shaft central bearing mount
Differencial side seals
Differencial fluid
Differencial mounts
PSE pump installed and reprogammed
Switch on the boot cental lock
On top of this you have:
Waste gate tweaked
EGR electronicly removed
IP timing advanced
This to give you a little rusty car but I guess one of the fastest and responsive E300TD
Olivier
PS: There might be more that I forgot to mention on the way ?
I also clean the Duo valves and just changed the coolant with 3 MB bottle and de-ionised water.
Again, I am sure there is more but I forgot.
Some I forgot:
right wing as been changed for a new one
left wing is here with me, just need a coat and be mounted.

sumit similar to my own w124
have my finger in too many pies at the mo otherwise it wud be a good buy!!!!

 

[Olivier]

It as more new parts and more TLC then when it came out the assembly line