Removing upper timing chain guide rail pin - 1993 190E M102 engine

[Will]

Hi Gang,

Started stripping the 190E yesterday (M102 1.8 8v) in order to replace the head gasket. All going fairly smoothly so far, just need to remove a last few nuts/bolts from the inlet side and take out the chain tensioner/cam etc.

I haven't touched the pin for the timing chain guide rail yet, never needed to remove one before (the twin cam M102 2.3/2.5-16s don't have this particular guide rail or pin!) but doing a little digging it seems as though it's caused some grief for people in the past.

I was planning on making a puller with a socket/washers and some 6mm threaded studding or bolt. Is this a risky idea? I don't have a slide hammer and I'm guessing most will be too big to fit in the space available.

What's the best idea? I don't want to make a mess - 5 mins saved vs. hours of grief if it goes wrong

Any pearls of wisdom most welcomed - I'll probably get going again soon

Many thanks,

Will

 

[jaymanek]

well what my friend did on my car is use a long bolt of the correct thread.. screw a large washer and a nut up to the head of the bolt. Use a hollow tube around half as long as the bolt and slide it over the bolt (the washer has to be wider than the tube), tighten the bolt up into the pin, then turn your nut and the pin will be eased out without having to strip any threads

Hope it makes sense.

 

[Will]

well what my friend did on my car is use a long bolt of the correct thread.. screw a large washer and a nut up to the head of the bolt. Use a hollow tube around half as long as the bolt and slide it over the bolt (the washer has to be wider than the tube), tighten the bolt up into the pin, then turn your nut and the pin will be eased out without having to strip any threads

Hope it makes sense.

Yep, it does - that's pretty much what I was thinking of doing - using a suitable socket as the tube and either a 6mm threaded bolt or some 6mm studding with nuts/washers.

Just that I've heard of some horror stories from people with (presumably) stubborn pins!

I'll obviously excercise caution, but thought I'd check in case there was a better/safer/easier method.

I'll let people know how it goes

Will

 

[jaymanek]

Just ensure the bolt is tight in.. then the threads shouldnt strip no matter how stubborn it is!

 

[Mercedes cozy]

Hi Will

I have a slide hammer which will take it out in seconds.

 

[Will]

Cheers guys

I got everything stripped from the head this afternoon, inlet is all free, everything drained down and all the hoses off, exhaust etc. Removed the tensioner and cam sprocket etc - it's all ready to come out.

But I chickened out with the 6mm pin. Gave it a good soaking with penetrating spay oil and cleaned the threads by running a 6x1mm bolt in/out a couple of times.

All seems okay, but it's clearly very tight. I'd rather not end up stuck so I think I'll take Mercedes Cozy's offer up and borrow his slide hammer.

Better safe than sorry!

Will

 

[Will]

For reference of others - a slide hammer all the way!

Many thanks to member 'Mercedes Cozy' above - I popped over to pick up the suitable slide hammer that he kindly offered to me.

Came home, popped the bonnet, threaded it into the 6mm pin and 4/5 persuasive, positive 'taps' and the pin glided out with ease

Repeated for the second pin and likewise it simply popped out.

Maybe it is possible to do with washers, a socket and a stud/bolt with a nut attached, but I didn't want to risk it - they were in there very tight.

Removed all of the head bolts in sequence and safely removed the head ready to strip down and clean up.

Have cleaned up all of the exhaust studs and nuts already. Need to check the head for trueness and skim if necessary. Valves don't look too bad but surely it's got to be worth cleaning them all up, lapping them in and fitting new stem seals whilst it's all apart?

I'll try and give the engine bay a quick clean whilst there's plenty of room, then get everything ready for reassembly.

I find it quite therapeutic working on old MBs, especially when you can take your time as you're not in a rush - makes all the difference I find

Will

 

[jaymanek]

Ive spent today servicing my blue SEC... ended up with fuel running into my arm pits after i spotted a leak at the pump....

whats it all about eh!

 

[kth286]

how long was the slide hammer please.

On my 6 cylinder I would need a stubby one as clearance to front of car is tiny - not seen many about.

 

[Ian B Walker]

how long was the slide hammer please.

On my 6 cylinder I would need a stubby one as clearance to front of car is tiny - not seen many about.

If you remove the radiator you can use a long slide hammer from outside the bodywork.

 

[Will]

If you remove the radiator you can use a long slide hammer from outside the bodywork.

That's exactly what I did

Slide hammer was a fairly decent size - maybe 18" long.

Will